Astrakhan

as tra-kan, a name given to the skins of a species of Russian sheep, the distinguishing characteristics of which are short, fine, soft, closely curled wool. The skins which form the fur used for coats, sacques, muffs, etc., are from young lambs reared in the mountainous districts of Astrakhan. Astrakhan cloth is woven in much the same way as velvet or plush. An extra pile-warp of lustrous wool or mohair is added to a single cloth. If the curly effect of the real wool is desired, this warp or pile which is to form the face of the finished fabric is crimped or twisted before weaving. This crimping is done by machinery, and is "set" or made permanent by a steaming process. These crimped threads are then woven over wires in the form of loops, which are cut, or left uncut, according to the effect desired. Sometimes part of the loops are cut and a part left uncut, producing a variety of novelties for cloakings and other purposes. See Weaving; Fur