Crepon

kra-pon, a name signifying coarse crape, applied to several articles of worsted fabrics made in imitation of real crape. The crinkled effect of crepon is produced by the Jacquard loom. Two sets of warp threads are used, the one having greater tension than the other. The lower set, which is sometimes of cotton, forms the foundation of the fabric. The upper set forms the face and is of silk, wool, or mohair. The Jacquard loom is so arranged that certain warp threads are skipped in the weaving to form a pattern. The varied effects produced are described as pebbled, cockled, dimpled, souffle, brocaded, blistered, etc. The fabric is dyed and finished with as little stretching as possible, that the crinkle effect may not be lessened. The material is sometimes silk striped, sometimes embroidered with silk on the Swiss embroidery machine. Crepons are classed frequently as "novelty goods." Cotton crepon is woven of yarns which have been mercerized and then protected by gum or some gelatinous substance from the action of caustic soda. These yarns are used in combination with others not so protected. The fabric is then treated with a solution of caustic soda which shrinks the unprotected yarns, producing a crinkled effect. See Mercerizing; Swiss Embroidery; Jacquard