Sewing

ordinarily, the process of fastening together by means of a thread. Sewing differs from tieing. In sewing the thread passes through the materials repeatedly. The ends of the thread may indeed be knotted to prevent their slipping through, but they are not tied together. In sewing each wrap of the thread is called a stitch. If two edges be sewed together the union is called a seam. The ordinary materials for sewing are fabrics, thread, and a needle, but none of these are essentials. The tailor bird, possibly the most ancient seamstress known, brings the edges of living leaves together, and, using her beak as an awl and a blade of grass or a shred of bark as a thread, constructs a pouch in which to build her nest. The relics of the lake dwellers of Switzerland and else-where include bone awls evidently employed in sewing primitive garments. The American Indian cut out the long sinew that runs parallel to the backbone of the deer; this he dried and separated into fibres, with which, and a bone awl and the tanned hide of the same deer, the patient squaw constructed buckskin moccasins and leggings for her family. The art of sewing has never been limited to the use of thread. Long-fellow tells how the Chippewa used fibrous roots to sew the edges of birch bark together for a canoe. Soles are sewed to boots with wire. Sailmakers employ heavy twine in fashioning sails. Then, too, there are special forms of sewing, as sewing on a button, sewing up a wound, working a button-hole, and quilting, which it is difficult to bring under any one definition. The Century Dictionary, noted for accuracy of definitions, disposes of the whole business by: "To unite, join, or attach by means of a thread, wire, or other flexible material, with or without the aid of a needle, awl, or other tool," a definition, it may be observed, broad enough to include lashing a spar to a mast, lacing a shoe, tieing a horse to his manger with a halter, or tethering a tup to a tall tree.

To trace the history of sewing we should have to begin with primitive society and the earliest attempts to fashion garments and tents. The development of the subject would lead us into embroidery and tapestry, into lacemaking, and into weaving and knitting. Questions of clothing and costumes, of thread, and of needles, awls, and other implements would fill an instructive volume, but would lead us far beyond the limits of the article.

Sewing is considered a tedious task. "Stitch, stitch, stitch," says Hood in his Song of the Shirt. The sewing machine has lifted some of the drudgery, but fashion has added so much by way of ruffles, pleats, and other features that the amount of hand work has not been decreased materially. Division of labor has lifted the burden somewhat. Ready-made garments have come to the housewife's rescue. A thousand aprons are made in a shop at less expense of time and effort than would be possible in a thousand homes. For all that, sewing is a necessary household art, an accomplishment worthy of any woman in the land. Formerly sewing was an indication of rank. Women of degree taught the maidens of their households to sew. The sisterhoods taught sewing as carefully as drawing or music. Sewing was an accomplishment, not the everyday art of the peasant women. Even yet there are hundreds of Old World villages in which the women, accustomed as they are to field work, are unable to sew. The village seamstress is called upon to make the few rude garments required.

Of late a marked tendency may be noted on both sides of the Atlantic to teach sewing in the public schools. This not merely to give practical knowledge, but to confer dignity not only on this subject but on the housekeeper's art in general. The following outline of work actually given in a four-room school during the year 1909-10 may be regarded as representative:

Fifth Grade: Two 30-min. periods per week. Canvas sample made into a sewing bag. Doll's apron. Doll's pillowcase (sewing on lace). Doll's blanket (blanket and catch stitches). Spoon case (Christmas work). One breadth apron (checked gingham). Needlebook. Towel-hemming and darning in pattern. Sixth Grade: Two 30-min. periods per week. Review of studies. Darning a real stocking brought from home. Making a complete uniform for cookery class. Towel. Holder. Oversleeves. Cap. Apron. Seventh Grade: Two 40-min. periods per week. Review of stitches. "Marguerite" for self, cut from a pattern which pupils bring from home. Hemmed patch. Christmas work. Dress darning on cashmere. Garment needing mending brought from home. White underskirt for self. Buttonholes. Eighth Grade: Two 40-min. periods per week. Review stitches, Combination workbag and apron. Nightgown, cut from pattern and trimmed as desired. Christmas work. Mitered and squared corner--handkerchief. Hemstitching. Drawers. Rolling hem and ruffle. First Year High School: Two 40-min. periods per week. Review stitches. Hemming, marking and darning table linen. Hemming, marking school napkins and table-cloth. Use of machine and attachments. Chinese or combination shirt and corset cover. Christmas work. Cutting and making simple shirtwaist and skirt.

Fancy work is not usually encouraged except during the month of December, when the entire sewing period in all grades is given to the children for their Christmas work.