Graver
A steel cutting tool used for engraving, turning, etc. The "Guaranteed" gravers, shown in Fig. 154, are unique from the fact that they cut at both ends; the handle (which is patented) is so adapted that it will accommodate the reverse ends of innumerable sizes and shapes of gravers. The various angles of points of the gravers are very excellent and cover the entire field as used both for turning and engraving. Use of the Graver.(The Directions apply to the use of the graver as a turning tool only. For directions for engraving on gold, silver, copper, etc., the reader is referred to two excellent works entitled, "General Letter Engraving" and "Modern Letter Engraving," Geo. K. Hazlitt & Co., Publishers. Chicago.) Beginners should first practice on hard wood, then brass, iron, steel and hardened and tempered steel, progressing ing from one material to the other as his ability warrants. He should turn for a long time with the point of a square or lozenge-shaped graver, the end of which is ground off on a slope; this is the only possible method of learning to turn true, and it enables the workman to acquire great delicacy of touch. Owing to carelessness, or to the fact that when first beginning they were set to work on metal that was too hard or rough, most beginners turn with gravers that are ground to very blunt points; as the graver bites less, they are obliged to apply a proportionately increased pressure, and only succeed in tearing the metal away, subject. ing it to a kind of rolling action and rendering the hand heavy. If a pupil will not practice turning with the graver point so as to preserve it intact for some time, dependent on the nature of the metal, he will never be able to turn perfectly true. Irregular and sudden depressing of the graver point, or engaging it too deeply, causes its frequent rupture.(See illustrations and directions for holding graver, under heading Making Balance Staff.) When sufficient experience has been gained in turning with the graver point and a trial is made with the cutting edge, do not attempt to take off much at a time by pressing heavily, but take the metal sideways, so as to remove a continuous thread, using all the points of the edge in succession. The metal will thus be removed as a thin ribbon or shaving. When the hand has had some experience, it will be found easy to remove long strips.
Hardened steel that has been drawn down to a blue temper requires certain precautions. If the graver is found not to cut cleanly, it must at once be sharpened, and no attempt should be made to remove more metal by increasing the pressure of the hand, because the steel will burnish and become hard under a point or edge that is blunt, and the portions thus burnished are sometimes so hard as to resist the best gravers. The only way of attacking them is to begin at one side with a fine graver point, which must be sharpened frequently; at times it becomes necessary to temper the metal afresh before it will yield. It is well to moisten the point of the graver with turpentine. Apprentices, and even watchmakers themselves, are frequently careless as to the proper sharpening of their gravers, and think they can hasten their work by application of considerable pressure; in this way they sometimes produce bright spots that require several hours' work before they can be removed. A majority of the Swiss workmen turn with the right or left hand indifferently. This is a very useful accomplishment, easily acquired when young.