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Repairing Repeating Watches

We will review the various kinds of repeaters we have met with, commencing with the simplest type, viz., the modern quarter repeater. Of these, we will call attention to two varieties. The first of these differs only slightly in construction from the other in one or two points, which are as follows: The running train of one ends with a pinion, which has sometimes mounted on its arbor a collet of brass to act as a fly in a clock (but often without this controlling medium), but always having a movable plug in the top-plate into which the pivot works, and which is used to regulate the speed of striking, by adjusting to the requisite position, being the same method as applied to an ordinary French striking clock. The second variety has the running train terminating with a pair of pallets, through which the escape wheels run freely, being controlled in speed by a banking piece attached to the pallet staff, and banking on a pin placed in an upright stud in the pillar-plate, which stud can be adjusted in the same manner as in the case of the movable plug in the previous case.

The former style of terminating the running train is found in earlier specimens, and is the only method used in English-made repeaters, while both methods have been used in foreign watches, though we think the former will most generally recommend itself, owing to the unpleasant noise caused in the running of the latter type.

The most simple and easy of readjustment is undoubtedly the Swiss type or bar movement, rendering it possible to take out either the whole or a portion only of the repeating work, in case of some slight correction being requisite, or to apply a new mainspring, either to the going or repeating train, as may be required, without necessitating the taking of the entire watch to pieces (which is inevitable in the old type of both English and French watches.) We think we do not exaggerate in saying that far less difficulty in readjusting complicated watches and putting together after cleaning, would be experienced, if workmen would make it a rule to observe more care in taking to pieces, and note any little fault, rather than rush the watch to pieces, and trust to chance that, after doing the cleaning, it would go together and be right, as a matter of course, as a little extra care in this way is really time saved. One thing we would try to impress upon all is to exercise special care not to bend or burr the pivots or teeth, or burr the pivot holes, as this is easily done in a desire to complete the work in hand, and often causes much vexation and loss of time and temper, when a very different result can be attained with ordinary care and forethought. For instance, the careless mixing of the screws belonging to the various portions of the work is a thing to be particularly avoided; this may appear to be a trivial matter, but experience has taught us that it is a very serious one. It has been our lot to take up work, previously commenced by others, and either through their incompetency or carelessness, our lot has been rendered anything but a happy one; even the simple task of taking the movement roughly or thoughtlessly out of its case, thereby distorting the gongs, will cause one sometimes to waste hours on readjusting, where a few minutes extra spent in the first instance would have obviated this trouble entirely. Of course, in the Swiss style of repeater, where the gongs can be easily removed from the watch before taking the movement out of the case, there is no reason why they should receive the slightest injury, but in this it is quite likely that your screws becoming mixed would cause great trouble and loss of time and worry, as the result of a little want of care and forethought. We would also impress upon each the necessity to be sure that none of the numerous studs which carry the repeating work are either bent during cleaning, or left with the dirty, thick oil adhering, and also that they are not loosened in the process. We will now pass on to note points of difficulty arising through ordinary wear and tear such as, for instance, the enlargement of the pivot holes of the hammers and of repeating barrel arbor holes, whereby slight inaccuracies will be caused in the repeating of the hours, etc., aggravated by additional wear having taken place at the points of action of the star wheel (to which is attached the hour snail), causing wrong numbers to be struck; though, perhaps, it is hardly fair to attribute these faults to wear alone, as they are often caused, or at least intensified, by the stupidity of some previous operator in making alterations (for what reason is more often than not a mystery). It is no uncommon thing to find the star with the teeth (or points) bent, some in one direction and some in another. When this is the case, the hitch will generally be found, on testing, that some of the hours are not giving the correct number. The plan we adopt is to at once set them upright, and with few exceptions, obtain the result desired.

In many of the older types of repeaters, the hour rack (or ratchet) is in a piece with the barrel arbor and consequently between the frames, as is likewise the pallet attached to raise the hammer for the hours. We therefore must observe great care in putting together to avoid the necessity of again removing the plates. As this entails much extra work and loss of time, it is therefore necessary to pay especial attention to see that we have the pallet aforesaid in its proper position on the hammer arbor, and also to be sure that the mainspring hooks in both going and repeating barrels are properly adjusted, so that there shall be no slipping from their anchorage at an inopportune moment. This, of course, will happen at times with even the best regulated workmen, but a little attention to these points at this stage will prove very valuable in the result, as to have to pull your work apart again means spoiling it in appearance in point of freshness, as the oil gets spread about, besides picking up particles of dirt, which means brushing out again, at least some of the work.

We will now consider screws, badly fitting, or with an inclination to overturn. Do not attempt any tinkering with them, but proceed to fit a new one at once, even if you have to resort to making a tap for the purpose, and turning down a piece of steel for a screw; you gain the desired end in a workmanlike manner. And in performing so apparently simple a thing as fitting a new screw, be careful to remove any burr caused by re-tapping the plate, as to have a spring or other portion of work displaced through negligence of this kind does not give your watch a fair chance of performing properly; also observe that all steady pins (in springs, etc.,) are secure and doing their allotted work.

Another very important point is to utilize the full length of repeating mainspring in a judicious manner by setting up as fully as possible (without, of course, making it strain on the hook at top), thus giving equal power all through the striking, or often you will find the quarters dragging slowly to a finish; and if this is so when the watch is fresh oiled, what will it be in six months after? This applies, of course, with greater force to the minute repeater, which has more to accomplish. Another plan we always adopt is to just run our eye over every separate piece to make sure each wheel is secure on its pinion, as it often happens that in brushing out they get loosened, or a bristle gets broken from the brush and sticks in a tooth or under a stud or other crevice, causing great annoyance if not observed at once. Other points to note and carefully readjust are the main wheel of repeating train, to see that it revolves freely on the arbor, as in drawing the slide to repeat, it is important that it should remove smoothly without jerking; the same applies in respect to the slide-work in the case, which is often choked with dirt, and (where there is no spring to throw back) either slide or rack causes great impediment in striking. And, again, in this connection observe care in cleaning the case, that no damage is done to groove in which slide acts, as the slightest bruise on the edges may prove a great puzzle. Be sure also that the star wheel shifts freely and does its work in a decisive manner, as likewise the loose piece on quarter snail, which is moved by flirting of star wheel, and which, acting properly, gives (at the hour) the hour only. See also that the quarter snail is not loose, but firmly riveted to canon pinion, and running perfectly flat to insure rack-tail falling securely, as it must be borne in mind that the space at command as a rule is very limited, more particularly in the modern watches, and notably in minute repeaters. One very important item is the set arbor, to mind that it acts smoothly and yet firmly, not loose in one place and tight in another. This applies to both the watch with hollow center pinion, with loose set arbor, or to solid pinion on which canon revolves. This is one of the points, even in the ordinary plain watch, which receives most unmerciful treatment at the hands of the botch, and yet is of the utmost moment to the good and correct performance of every watch, and especially the repeater.

Instead of such reprehensible methods as are so often resorted to--viz, the rough and ready use of nippers or graver to burr the arbor, or, as one frequently sees, the flattening even by the use of the hammer--the best plan, and one sure to give satisfaction, if tried, is to first remove the burrs by revolving the arbor in the lathe, using a polisher charged with oilstone dust. Having done this, lay the arbor on a brass stake, and with a fine sharp pointed center punch raise a swelling on it at the spot which will be nearest to the middle, so giving a firm and yet smooth action; at the same time it is necessary to observe that it does not work too tightly, or there is danger of backing the escapement in reversing the hands. One type of repeater seldom met with is the five-minute repeater, that is, one which, after giving the hour in the usual way, gives one stroke for each five minutes recorded by the hands, so that, for the sake of illustration, say the watch shows by the dial five minutes and less than ten minutes past the hour, viz., nine minutes past three, you would, on repeating, get first the hour, three strokes, and then one stroke, and at ten minutes past you would get two strokes, and so on, an additional stroke for every five minutes up to within a fraction of the next hour, when you would get eleven strokes, when, immediately on completion of the next hour, you would get four strokes, viz., four o'clock. This, to our mind, is of greater utility than either the quarter or half quarter repeater, and far less complicated and certainly less costly to produce than any other type, and serves every purpose for which a repeater is required, as to be able to ascertain the time in the dark within five minutes is assuredly near enough for any one. To arrive at this you have the ordinary hour snail affixed to star wheel, and in place of the usual quarter snail on center arbor there is one with eleven divisions and a rack with the same number of teeth to give the strokes one to eleven as required.

We have known several instances of workmen and others who, coming across one of these for the first time, have imagined (and not unnaturally) that they were in possession of a minute repeater, which was giving the hours and minutes while the quarters were failing to act, but on removing the dial were agreeably surprised, besides gaining fresh experience, thus showing that we in the watch trade are always learning. Fig. 261 shows the rack which produces in turn both quarters and half-quarters. It is hardly necessary to point out that the quarters are produced by the six teeth (three each at opposite extremities), alternately raising the hammers at equal intervals. We will commence with the first half-quarter. It will be seen by reference to Fig. 261, that there are apparently three teeth at one end and four at the other; this shows the rack in position for giving the half-quarter only. The tail of rack, which falls upon the snail, Fig. 262 controls this by allowing it to fall just far enough to pass back beyond the first pallet, in readiness to raise the hammer on its return, thus producing one blow at the half-quarter, whereas on reaching and passing the fifteen minutes past, the four teeth will only appear as three, as the lower half of the rack tail now falls on the under part of the snail; this result being attained by means of the loose shifting piece attached to the rack, and controlled by a click and spring. And in this shifting piece generally arises any failing in the half-quarter, as should the said click spring be set on too strong, or, on the other hand, not strong enough, you will be either without your half-quarter or else get it when you should have the full quarter. This failure is also partly in consequence of the spring of the rack not being set on quite strong enough, as in the case of any slight impediment the tail of the quarter rack would only reach the quarter snail in falling, instead of getting underneath it on to the half-quarter snail; this might also arise in consequence of excessive endshake of the center wheel, bringing the canon pinion too low, which would complicate matters further by causing the snail to foul the star wheel. If these important points are carefully attended to there will not be much fear of failure, always, of course providing there has not been any tampering with the snail or the rack, or more especially with that portion of the rack which controls the giving or withholding of the half-quarters, as is unfortunately the case sometimes, though happily not often. We are convinced that as a rule, where any alteration in shape of any part from the original has been made it is merely experimenting, and once indulged in leads to mischief and utter failure.

In all our experience we can only recall one instance of a watch of this particular type, an old duplex half-quarter repeater by McCabe, which appeared likely to master all our efforts to get the half quarter to act properly, and though we felt convinced we should be justified in altering the shape of the half-quarter rack at the point of contact with the click which controls the shifting of the same, we were loath to do so, as there did not appear to have been any serious tampering with it, though undoubtedly the shape had been slightly altered. We however, did at last make the alteration according to our conviction in the matter, but not before we had given it every consideration, and taken counsel with others, and were gratified to find we obtained the exact result required, and did not therefore, consider the loss of time a waste of time.

Of course, there is no hard and fast rule in watch work, and the fault met with in the job today may not present itself again for years. There is one thing to be said in favor of the half-quarter repeater; and that is, that it was made principally in the good old times, when plenty of time was devoted to the work, with a view to durability; and consequently faults do not arise as a rule from absolute wear, as the endeavor seemed to be to put in the finest material, at the same time making it of the best possible temper. Indeed, this applies to all the old watches as regards the quality and temper of the material, as any reader is aware who comes across a specimen from time to time. This is, unfortunately, a very different character than can be given in the majority of work of the present day, where the demand is for cheapness, the result being that you get the steel work absolutely soft, and of course in this state it is impossible to impart the same amount of finish to the work, hence roughness in the action and speedy signs of wear in parts of contact. Fig. 263 shows an old specimen of a French quarter repeater, apparently of very ancient origin; the movement and dial bear the name Chevalier and