Encyclopedia of Practical Receipts and Processes

How to silver a mirror, brew ginger beer, kill moths, make fireworks, tan a hide, bronze iron, cure a ham and clean a straw hat: William B. Dick's numbered encyclopedia answered the questions a nineteenth-century household actually had.

HomeBrewing › Important Hints on Brewing

Important Hints on Brewing

Small beer will require rather more yeast to work it than strong beer or ale. A portion of the wort at the temperature of 85 degrees should be mixed at first with the yeast.

When the fermentation has commenced, the rest of the wort may be run into the tun at the heat of 75 degrees. It will not work so long nor so strongly as ale, and may be casked the next day. Attend to the filling of the cask as directed for ale. In about two days the fermentation will have subsided, and the cask should then be bunged close. The fermentation will always show whether the degrees of heat have been well taken, and the extract well made. If too high, the air-bladders on the head will be about as large as a dollar piece. If too low, there will be few or no bladders, or very small ones; but when well taken they will be in size about that of a 2 cent piece. The proportions of hops used for beer should be in accordance with the time it is to be kept. If for immediate use, 3 pounds will be sufficient for a coomb of malt (4 bushels). From 1 to 2 years, 4 pounds; old beer, 5 or 6 pounds. The same if the wort is very rich; or in proportion to its gravity use more hops, because beer or ale made from rich wort is always intended for long keeping. In general, 4 or 5 pounds of hops per coomb (4 bushels) is used for ales; obtained from every bushel of malt will depend entirely on the proposed strength of the liquor required. For ale or beer of a superior kind, the produce of the first mashing only should be used; but if the ordinary or usual driking ale is wanted, take the produce of the first and second mashings, and use the third for table beer.

← CleansingFlavoring Beer →