Figs
28 and 29 show different types of lever paragraphs, the band is, when required, pulled into contact with the drum. The connections are adjusted as described above. The band itself hardly requires adjustment, but when it is necessary it is effected by loosing the clip on the chain stays and moving it along till the right adjustment is obtained. Φ used with Bowden brakes. By far the best is that shown in Fig. 28. The "inverted lever" shown in Fig. 29 is responsible for much of the blame which has been attached to this form of brake. The wire receives a direct pull from the lever, and is conducted inside the handlebar from which it generally issues through a small hole at the top of the handlebar stem.
There is a certain meretricious neatness about The band requires occasional lubrication with castor oil. If this is neglected, it is likely to fire in descending a long hill.
It is doubtful whether band brakes possess any marked advantages over rim brakes.
C.-CHAIN-APPLIED BRAKES.
III. Internal Hub Brakes (Back Pedalling). -Often known as coaster brakes. We have chosen the New Departure hub as typical of these. (See Figs. 33 and 34.) They are reli- A E To flindar Corp D BRAKE.
To adjust.-Loose the lock nut at the end of the cable; then turn the hexagonheaded bolt below it till the brake blocks are the right distance from the rim.
The two clips to which the springs are secured should not be touched. this arrangement, of which some makers have availed themselves to the extent of concealing the whole length of the wire inside the tubes of the frame, or connecting the wire at its point of issue from the handlebar with ordinary brake connections. The difficulty with brake wires concealed in the handlebar is the sharp curve which they take at the point of issue.
The mode of adjustment of the Bowden back brake is shown under Fig. 31. 110. Band Brakes (Foot or Hand Applied).- The band brake consists of a band of leather encircling a drum on the back wheel. By means of any of the devices described in the foregoing able in action, smooth in working, and as they need no adjustment give the minimum of trouble.
It is possible, however, that riders who like to have the working parts of the machine available for inspection may regard it as a drawback that the mechanism is entirely hidden from view. A theoretical objection lies in the fact that if the chain should break the hub is put out of action, but in these days of free-wheels a broken chain is practically an unknown occurrence. 112. The New Departure Hub. - The chain ring (which is solid) is mounted on a short driver (E in Fig. 33). This is mounted on a ring of balls, which run on the right-hand cone of the E2 axle, and has on its outside a quick-pitch spiral thread, which engages with a corresponding groove on the inside of the clutch sleeve (D).
When the rider pedals forward the driver, by means of this spiral thread, pulls the clutch sleeve to the right and the roughed cone on the exterior of the latter comes into contact with the tapered waist of the hub, to which it thus transmits the drive. When he ceases to pedal forward the weight of the feet on the pedals is sufficient to withdraw the clutch sleeve from the hub, which runs free. The purpose of the spring Fis to hold the clutch sleeve stationary and to prevent it from revolving with the driver. When he backpedals, by the reverse action described for forward pedalling, the driver forces the clutch sleeve to the left, when its inner surface grips the clutch at the non-chain end of the axle, and forces it round. The clutch (which is free of the axle) bears at its opposite end three projections, A1 2 3 (Fig. 34). Again, to the left, and free [CYCLING 114. Tandems, owing to the great length of the wheelbase, the great weight carried, and the extra stress of driving the machine, are built of far stronger parts than singles. Whippiness of frame is even more detrimental to the good running of a tandem than of a single, while the con. sequences of a breakdown are usually serious.
More particularly the head and the front forks and crowns have to be specially strengthened; triple fork crown are often used, and the forks duplicated; when this duplication is lateral the outer forks are often carried to the top of the head.
The adjustment of the parts of a tandem is, with the exception of that of the front chain, performed as with a single. The adjustment of the front chain is best carried out by placing the front crank-bearing eccentric to the bracket (which is made very large); by turning the whole A B3 A3 NEW DEPARTURE B2- COASTED MUB B D D C 160 23 to revolve on the axle, is a disc which bears three cams, B123 mounted on pivots, and three brake rings, C123. When the cone is forced to revolve by the clutch sleeve the three projections, A1 23 meet the three cams, B¹ 3, which turn on their pivots, and cause the brake rings, C 1 2 to expand into contact with the drum, D, which is formed on the inside of the hub. The disc which bears the cams and brake rings is prevented from revolving idly on the axle by the brake arm secured to the frame of the bicycle. This carries a serrated plate, which locks with corresponding serrations on the disc, the plate and disc being forced together by the axle nut.
Adjustment of the hub is effected by the cone at the right-hand end of the axle.
One great advantage of this type of brake is that the wheel is not embraced by rim brakes, and that the operations of tyre repair are much facilitated. 113. Mudguards. The ordinary mudguard is secured by screws or clips to the bridges of the chain stays and back stays or front fork crown, and further supported by wire stays terminating in a flat ring which encircles the wheel axle and is secured by the fork end nut.
It would be convenient if the stays were attached not to the axle but to the back stays. Messrs. Bluemel, who, in common with other firms, make a useful detachable celluloid mudguard, supply stays attached in this way. Celluloid mudguards are, however, brittle, and need careful handling. A special feature in celluloid mudguards is made of an extra broad pattern for bad weather. This is useful, as ordinary guards are usually too narrow. Mention should also be made of the forward extension, a short guard which projects about 6 in. forward from the front fork crown. This device keeps a good deal of mud off the rider and his machine. bearing in the bracket the tension of the chain can be adjusted.
We illustrate the well-known Raleigh No. 24 Tandem, which is built to carry a lady behind, but has the front frame also dropped to allow of the man who sits in front dismounting easily.
This machine is well triangulated, and is strong enough to carry two men. 115. The Tricycle (see also para. 30).-We regret that the space at our disposal and the public interest in the subject does not justify more than a passing reference to this type of machine. Modern tricycles are all made with double driving. A divided axle, carrying the driving wheels, is driven by the chain, and a balance gear allows the inside wheel in turning corners to run at a slower pace than the outside wheel. The use of change-speed gears on tricycles is mentioned in para. 95. 116. Enamelling, Plating, &c. -The frame of the bicycle is coated with enamel, which is hardened by being baked in a stove. The handlebar, front fork crown, cranks, brake-work, &c., are usually nickel-plated, partly for the sake of appearances, partly because an enamelled surface is uncomfortable to the hand, and partly because enamel is obviously unsuitable to fittings which have to slide into each other. The objection to nickel-plating is its liability to rust. It is, as the microscope shows, porous, and the pores let through wet and damp. Its merit is that it is tough and scratches will not, as a rule, expose the metal underneath. "coslet- A new chemical process, known as tising," furnishes steel with a black rust-proof coat. It is, however, liable to be scratched or scraped off in use. We understand, however, that means have been found of plating a coslettised surface, and this combination of resistance to rust and toughness should be ideal. The parts CYCLING] usually plated may be bronzed, as is done with gun-barrels, but this is quite useless as a rust preventive, and far inferior to nickel-plating. A very good plan is to cover the parts with celluloid, and this method is useful for the horizontal tubes of handlebars, cranks, hubs, &c. It is, however, even more inapplicable than enamel to adjustable parts. Mention may here be made of the new "Galvanit" preparations, which are useful for restoring plating. The prudent rider will cover such plated parts as his bicycle has with vaseline, or, better still, one of the drying preparations of wax sold for the purpose. Accumulations of dust do no harm except that they induce officious ostlers and repairers to clean off the protective coating. ACCESSORIES. 117. Spanners. All machines are provided with spanners to fit each nut. An adjustable spanner is a convenient tool to carry, as it saves the weight of a battery of ordinary spanners. It is important to buy a good one, and to use it carefully. Rounded edges to nuts are the consequence of carelessness in this respect. 118. Oil-cans. - Cheap oil-cans are to be avoided-a really well-finished one is worth its cost.
Much trouble is saved by the use of the special handles, one of which contains an oil can and the other a repair outfit. Oil cans carried in the tool bag or seat pillar generally leak. The oil can in the handle does not, because its screw threads are above oil level. 119. Tool-bags should be large enough to enable the contents to be readily packed; those supplied by the makers do not as a rule afford room for more than the particular spanners of the machine. Space should be allowed for a repair outfit, an adjustable spanner, and a screwdriver. Tool-bags are conveniently made of white patent leather, so as by reflecting the light of an overtaking motor to warn the driver of the presence of the cyclist. 120. Lamps.-Acetylene lamps are by far the best for long rides, but for casual use they are unsuitable, as the carbide, once wetted, gradually gives off its gas. For such purposes a good paraffin lamp is best, as it is less exacting in its need for attention than the ordinary oil lamp. The latter does not give good results unless its wick and oil be changed frequently. A fairly expensive lamp is a sound investment. Very small lamps will generally be found to give trouble.
In the case both of paraffin and of ordinary oil lamps the wick should be thoroughly dried before it is put into the lamp. The lamp should, of course, be kept clean, and care taken not to let any of the air passages get blocked. The rider should see that the lamp when in position on the lamp bracket is vertical, gently bending the bracket, if necessary till the result is attained. 121. Bells. In the purchase of bells, the payment of a full price is sound policy. Bells can be bought for a shilling, but they generally give trouble, and have to be discarded. 122. Pumps. A foot pump for home use is a convenience. The slender celluloid pumps which are given with the machine are quite good, and there is rarely need to buy others. If the rubber connection needs replacing, the variety covered in metal wire is the best. (See note as to foreign pumps under para. 146.) 123. Pump Clips. -The drawback of the spring clips given away with machines is that in lifting the bicycle, the pump is likely to become detached, and this often happens on railway journeys.
Clips in which the pump can by a screw device be locked in place (such as Cooper's) are infinitely better. 124. Cyclometers. - It is a pity that the dial varieties, which enabled quite short distances to be measured with accuracy have gone out of use.
The barrel type, which gives in plain figures the mileage to the nearest tenth of a mile, owes its popularity to the ease of reading it. Of these the Lucas, which is British made, deserves special notice. The Veeder is good, and the trip variety which records both the total mileage covered by the machine, and, on a separate barrel, which can be set back to zero, the mileage for the day, is a convenience.
All these have a spur wheel projecting from the cyclometer and engaging by the under teeth with a spur fixed to one of the spokes. The cyclometer is carried on a bracket borne on the front wheel spindle, and there is provision for adjusting the distance between the cyclometer and the wheel of the bicycle. An improvement in design is to be found in the New Departure Security" Cyclometer, in which the cyclometer is mounted on the hub, the spur wheel projecting between the spokes. The striker in this case is carried on the hub. In this way the cyclometer being carried within the spokes is protected from injury. 66 125. Thorn-catchers. These are light arches of metal clipped to the front or back forks close to the tyre. They pick out thorns or nails which have become lodged on the tyre before they have time to penetrate.
PNEUMATIC TYRES. 126. The reason of the superiority of the pneumatic over the obsolete solid and cushion tyres appears to lie in the following facts. Each successive portion of the tyre as it comes into contact with the ground is compressed by the weight of the rider, and when it is freed from the weight immediately flies back to its original form, and, pushing against the road, helps to propel the cycle, restoring to it nearly as much energy as was absorbed in its compression. A solid or cushion tyre absorbed just as much force in its compression, but owing to the relative sluggishness of rubber as compared with compressed air, failed to regain its shape with sufficient promptitude to push against the road and so be of service.
A fast pneumatic tyre is one in which the materials hinder as little as possible this resilience of the air. The other essentials of a good tyre are immunity of the rider from vibration, ease in repair, durability, and freedom from puncture.
The last of these is the least important; any ordinary puncture can be repaired in ten minutes, and as with the usual light roadster tyres puncture occurs but rarely, it is not necessary to cumber and retard the tyre with protective bands.
Durability is a matter of using good material, and sufficiently thick rubber; while freedom from vibration and resiliency go together and are considered below. 127. Pneumatic tyres normally consist of three concentric layers, which, beginning from the inside, are:- I. The air-tube, made of slightly vulcanised rubber, and fitted with a valve. II. A layer of inextensible fabric to prevent the air-tube from bulging or bursting, and to take the strain of driving. III. A layer of more highly vulcanised rubber to protect the fabric from the road; it is usually thicker on the centre or tread than on the sides, and on racing tyres becomes a mere strip of rubber mounted on the fabric as a tread.
The second and third members are nearly always of a piece, and are together known as the "jacket"; in some tyres they interpenetrate each other; they are more usually separate, but vulcanised together. 128. Nature of the Fabric. - It cannot be too strongly emphasised that it is by means of the fabric that the force of driving is communicated from the rim to the tread of the tyre and so to the ground; the rubber is only to act as a protection to the fabric; except on the tread, it takes none of the driving strain, and adds very little to the actual strength of the tyre.
Without entering into details, we may say that the best results are obtained from a fabric which consists of layers of independent threads running diagonally from edge to edge of the cover and not interwoven. This is called a "tangential " fabric, because the pull travels lengthwise along the threads (as in a tangent spoke) and not across them; it has the further advantage of eliminating the friction and sawing action that takes place between threads of ordinary canvas. 129. The Rubber of the Jacket. It is essential that this should be of high quality; too many of the tyres on the market contain an abnormal amount of incorporated earthy matter, useful to a slight extent to give substance to the rubber, but beyond that point a mere adulterant. 130. Non-slipping devices. - The jacket of roadster tyres is generally made with fluting or corrugations to prevent "side-slip." Such devices inevitably detract from the resilience of the tyre, especially when their effect is unduly to stiffen the jacket by rendering it too massive. They may, however, be regarded as indispensable. 131. Non-slipping Bands may be fixed with solution to smooth tyres, and afford the further advantage of saving them from cuts or punctures.
On very flinty roads this is the only way to save the tyres; when badly cut the band may be replaced. 132. How hard to pump. -The tyres should just show a slight flattening when ridden; for riders of about IIst., the finger and thumb of one hand should be able to make no impression on the back tyre, and a very slight one on the front.
Heavier riders should inflate rather harder, and vice versâ. 133. Classification of Tyres. - Pneumatic tyres may be classified under two heads:-I. Detachable tyres. II. Tube tyres.
In the former the jacket is a broad band, secured to the rim by its edges, the air-tube resting on the rim and being as a rule protected from it by a strip of tape; the latter present to the eye the appearance of a simple hose-pipe, and are usually cemented to the rim.
DETACHABLE TYRES. 134. Method of repair. First of all inflate the punctured tyre as hard as possible, and examine its exterior for the puncturing body; unless the puncture be very small, a quick ear will often be able to locate the puncture by its hissing sound without further measures. In such a case only a small part of the jacket need be detached. If the spot cannot be detected it will be necessary wholly to remove one side of the jacket from the rim. First, however, apply the moistened finger to the valve to ascertain that the fault does not lie there. [CYCLING Carefully clean the tyre, as the entrance of grit beneath the jacket is most destructive to both fabric and air tube; then deflate it and detach one edge of the jacket (see below), in the case of the back wheel choosing the side furthest from the chain, so as to avoid greasing the ain tube; with the same object wind a piece of rag round the end of the hub. Pull the air-tube from under the cover; it is not usually worth while to undo the valve and so remove it altogether from the rim. Cautiously inflate the tube so that it just feels plump to the hand; overpressure will cause it to swell up and burst. A large puncture can then often be heard; if not, pass the whole of the tube in front of the lips, when a very slight escape is usually noticeable; test any suspected spot with the wet finger.
Should this fail, the whole tube must be passed under water (a small bowl will suffice) stretching each successive portion as it is immersed; the smallest puncture will be betrayed by a persisten stream of bubbles. If this is unsuccessful it will be necessary to remove the valve from the rim (see paragraph 146), replace it in the tube, reinflate, and test the small remaining piece of tube round the valve.
Having found the puncture, mark it with an indelible pencil, carefully dry the tube for some distance round, and gently rub the surface round the puncture with a piece of sand-paper to remove the whitish deposit of sulphur on which no patch will stick. The sand-paper on a matchbox may be used; or the wetted head of a match will equally well remove the sulphur. Next, with a circular motion of the finger, apply round the spot a thin and even coating of rubber solution; leave this to dry, and cut a patch of sheet rubber, inclining the scissors so as to make a bevelled edge; clean the non-bevelled side with sand-paper or benzine, and coat it with solution. Allow time for it to set; it should be "tacky" to the touch, and up to ten minutes the longer the interval the better; then apply the patch to the puncture, remembering that once the two solutioned surfaces have touched, the patch cannot be removed without cleaning off and beginning afresh.
Press the patch firmly down, powder it with French chalk, to prevent it from sticking to the jacket; it now only remains to replace the valve and air-tube in the rim, and to attach the jacket.
Before again inflating make sure that the air-tube is not nipped by the edge of the cover, and see that the tape which insulates the tube from the rim lies smoothly.
A very small puncture or a leak at the join of the tube, which escapes detection by the ordinary method, may often be roughly located by immersing the whole tyre fully inflated, in a trough of water, when the escaping air will come through the neighbouring spoke holes.
If the hole in the air-tube be large, as in the case of a burst, the rubber patch should be covered by one of canvas applied in the same way. In the case of a long slit a little ingenuity will enable you to put a patch on the inside; this should be reinforced by another on the outside. For punctures under the valve patch, cautiously peel off the canvas (or rubber) patch (using benzine or even rubber solution to free it from the air tube), apply a patch, and again stick down the canvas with solution, allowing a short interval to admit of its drying. A leak at the inset of the valve usually arises from cutting of the air-tube; the valve must be inserted in a fresh place, and the original hole treated as a large puncture.
If, however, a section of the tube should hap- CYCLING] pen to become hopelessly rotten, and patching is hopeless, it is sometimes advisable to cut away the affected portion and make a fresh join; in order to do this, fold back about it in. of one end of the tube, much as one might turn back the end of one's sleeves; coat this and the outside of the other end with solution, and when they are tacky lay one side of the folded end against the side of the other end; put the thumb inside one of them and press them well together; then very quickly unroll the rolled end over on to the other, pressing them well together, and taking care to avoid puckers. This operation requires nice manipulation and should not be attempted by a novice. In any case, a tube that has got into so bad a condition should be replaced as soon as possible. 135. Cuts and Bursts in the Jacket. -Cuts which do not entirely pierce the rubber of the jacket should be cleared of all dirt by teasing with a splinter of wood; the sides of the cut should then be solutioned, and after an interval brought firmly together; a large hole may be plugged with cotton wool soaked in solution. This will prevent wet reaching the fabric and so causing it to rot.
Rubber preparations are sold for filling cuts on the cover. Many of these are useful, but care must be taken to clean the cut before applying, and to allow time for the preparation to set. Cuts which reach the fabric and bursts (usually the result of a neglected cut) must be repaired from inside. Detach one edge of the jacket; then apply to the inner surface of the jacket an ordinary but large rubber patch to keep out water, and strengthen it with a good-sized patch of proper repairing canvas. Dust with French chalk and replace the jacket. A really badly cut jacket should at the earliest opportunity be sent to the makers for repair. A quick temporary repair may be made by means of one of the rubber bands sold for the purpose. One end of this is tucked under one of the wires or beaded edges. It is drawn tightly across the partially inflated tyre, tucked under the other wire, and the tyre fully inflated. A band thus fixed will last for a day or two. A more permanent repair may be made by fixing it with solution to the cover.
Dust blisters occur from the entry of dust into a neglected cut; it will often be found that the dust has worked between the fabric and the rubber; it should be carefully teased out and the cut filled up as described above. 136. Detachable tyres may be classified under two general heads. A. Tyres held in the rim independently of inflation, or wired tyres. B. Tyres held in the rim by inflation, or beaded-edge tyres.
B.
The former class may be trusted not to leave the rim even if ridden deflated. For this reason this class is theoretically preferable, though in actual practice the risk of an inflation-held tyre leaving the rim in the case of a sudden burst is but slight; such a tyre would take some time to work itself off. The inflation-held tyre is, however, subject to this drawback, that, if the jacket be carelessly attached to the rim, the air-pressure occasionally blows it off, though in the vast majority of cases it automatically drives it into its correct position. a 137. A. Wired Tyres. The jacket carries along each edge an endless inextensible wire, or bundle of wires, which rests in channel formed on the inside of the rim.
These wires are smaller in diameter than the extreme edge of the rim, but larger than the diameter of its bed. Hence, if the wire be pressed well into the bed of the rim on one side of the tyre, it becomes no longer concentric with the rims, and its opposite side tends to rise over its edge, when it may be readily detached. The details of the method of detachment, &c., are explained under Fig. 36. The great merit of this type is its absolute simplicity. It defies the novice to injure it. He can either get it on and off, or he cannot, but there is no middle course of imperfect attachment leading to disaster. To our mind its great drawback is that the working of the wire into the rim is in muddy weather a dirty process. Moreover, now and then a tightly fitting tyre will be found which is decidedly hard to detach.
TRADE MARK.
MADE BY DOUGHTY PATENT PROCESY To remove the jacket, push the wire into the bed of the rim, beginning opposite the valve, and working it well down for nearly half its circumference by running the thumb along it. The wire will tend to rise over the edge of the rim in the neighbourhood of the valve, where a suitable lever (e.g., a tyre-lever, the handle of a tooth-brush) is slipped under it, it, and its outward end forced well down towards the spol spokes till the wire comes over the rim. This generally happens with a slight jump. It should never be necessary to insert a second lever: this is characteristic of the bungler. To replace the jacket, slightly inflate the air-tube and place it in position. Then beginning opposite the valve, place as much of the jacket as possible in the rim; if the wire (beginning opposite the valve) be worked into the rim in the manner described above, the outstanding portion may usually be slipped over its edge with the fingers.
Before inflating, see that the jacket lies evenly in the rim, pulling it up and pushing it down when necessary; see also that the tube is not "nipped," and that the tape which protects the tube from the spoke-heads lies smoothly. 138. B. Beaded-edge Tyres. In this class of tyre the covers are made with stiffened edges forming on each side a beading which engages in a groove in the rim into which it is pinned or clinched by the air-pressure. The attachment and To detach-Press one edge of the jacket inwards so as to disengage the beading from its groove in the rim: continue the process by running the thumb under the beading till it can be lifted over the rim by the fingers. No tool is required. If the beading be rusted into the rim a little force may be necessary to detach it. To replace-Lift the edge on to the rim, carefully tuck the beading into its groove, and inflate. Be careful not to nip the tube. These directions apply to the whole class. With these tyres the tube is generally kept from the spoke-heads by the beaded edge, and no tape is used. detachment of this class are considerably easier than in the case of wired tyres. For details see under Fig. 37. 139. Detachable Air Tubes. These are not endless and can be removed from the machine without detaching the wheel. They are a distinct convenience, as punctures can be repaired comfortably in the home. None of them appreciably slow the tyre. Of these we have:a 140. (1) The Butt-ended Tube. - The two ends of the tube are closed by a diaphragm of thin rubber. One end carries a projecting collar, the other sheath in which the other end is placed. This sheath has on its inner surface an annular groove which locks with the projecting collar of the other end. The Michelin has one end of the tube terminating in a cone which fits into a female cone in the other end.
One is thrust into the other, and they are locked together by the act of inflation. It is very important with butt-ended tubes to make sure before replacing them in the tyre that the two ends are properly locked. 141. (2) Scarf-ended Tubes. In these the two ends are formed by the opposite sides of the tube being vulcanised together. In the Michelin Simplex tube one of these scarfed ends is continued by a leather flap pierced with a hole to admit the valve. The valve thus locks the two ends of the tube securely together. The two ends, of course, overlie each other. 142. (3) Open-ended Tubes. These have the ends left open, are provided with projecting rings and corresponding recesses which lock into each other, and, when so locked together, form a continuous air chamber. The Hermetic and the Rich are the two on the market. 143. Of all these varieties the scarf-ended tube seems to us the most practical, and the interruption in the air chamber does not noticeably affect the resiliency of the tyre. 144. Self-sealing Tubes. - That portion of the tube which is toward the tread of the tyre is formed of rubber so moulded as to be in compression. It should automatically close upon small punctures. Larger punctures must be repaired in the ordinary way. It is important to see that the self-sealing portion lies true on the tread, and that the spoke-heads are properly protected by the tape, as the part of the tube toward the rim is very thin and delicate. a 145. Tube Tyres. These are useful only for speed purposes, so much so, that when they are used on the road it is a frequent practice to carry a second tyre ready for attachment, as it is quicker to put on a new tyre than repair the old. They are cemented to the rim (almost always of wood).
The portion of the tyre which rests on the rim is of fabric made in separate strips solutioned together. Punctures are located by inflating the complete tyre, putting it in water, stripping the fabric round the place where bubbles appear, pulling out a part of the tube through the aperture so made, and definitely locating and mending the puncture in the usual way. When this is done the tyre is again solutioned together, and recemented to the rim. Constrictor tyres are rather less difficult to repair, the fabric consisting of loose fibres not woven together, so that when the tyre is removed from the rim the tube can be pulled between them and the puncture (located as described above) mended, and the tyre re-attached to the rim. 146. The Dunlop Valve is the type almost universally used on British tyres. A description and directions for dealing with it are given below (see Fig. 38). It is the fashion to regard the valve cap as a useless nuisance, but it prevents the ingress of dust, which accumulates round the plug of the valve in the rubber sleeve and causes the rubber to [CYCLING perish. It may be remarked that in France a rubberless valve, something like the excellent but obsolete Lucas, is universally used. Consequently rubber valve tubing is practically un- E K A K G F C To Insert the Valve in the Air-Tube. Cut in the air-tube a circular hole, slightly smaller than the diameter of the body of the valve A; stretch the hole and slip through it the head, which may be lubricated with a touch of solution. Take a diamond-shaped patch of fine fabric, cut a small hole in the middle, pass it over the valve, and with the usual precautions solution it to the tube b. Let it set thoroughly, and slip over the valve the plate c; screw down on to it the nut D, taking care that the plate is longitudinally parallel to the tube; do not screw the nut D so tightly as to mutilate the rubber. Put the valve through the rim E, secure it with the lock-nut and washer G and F, and, lastly, fit in the plug H. The body A is provided half way down with a shoulder; into this fits the plug H, which is guided into it and prevented from revolving by two small projections at its top fitting into two nicks in A. The plug c is furnished with a shoulder, sloping the reverse way to that in A. H is traversed by a channel to admit the air, which turns sharply towards the bottom and emerges from its side. A thin tube of rubber, k, fits somewhat tightly over its lower portion. covering its shoulder. A cap L, screwing on to A, forces this shoulder against the shoulder at B, the rubber making an air-tight joint.
The valve is not unscrewed for inflation; the incoming air forces up the rubber tube at D, but as soon as the pressure from without ceases, the rubber resumes its position and no air can escape from inside.
Care should be taken in screwing up the cap E not to cut the rubber between the two shoulders. Leaks occur from this and the perishable nature of the tubes, which have to be renewed from time to time. The old one is pulled off, and a new one carefully worked on. procurable there. The tourist should resist the advice of the French repairer to have these valves fitted, as, owing to their length of nozzle, they cannot be inflated with British pumps. There is, however, no difficulty in inflating a British valve with a French pump. 147. The Michelin Valve. This very simple D B C G H 0 1 T valve is easily understood from the annexed illustration. The conical rubber plug shown in black is forced by the air pressure inside the tube against the walls of the recess into which it fits. The act of inflation forces this plug downwards and admits air. By pressing the rod to which the plug is attached the tyre can be deflated. The CYCLING] cap of the valve has a spike for pressing down the rod of the valve. With this type of valve it is important never to omit the cap, as the ingress of dust is likely to make it leak. a - 148. MISCELLANEOUS. Care of the Machine. Cycles should be kept in a dry place not subject to extremes of temperature (this for the sake of the tyres ).
After use machine should have the bulk of the wet mud promptly removed to avoid rust, though it is better to defer thorough cleaning till it is dry; a rag damped with paraffin should then be used, obstinate clots being touched with a drop of the liquid; water is to be avoided.
In wet weather the plated parts, excepting of the handlebars and the outside of the cranks, should receive a thin coat of vaseline or wax polish; this will collect dust, but no harm will be done to the machine. Plating is best cleaned of rust by hard rubbing with paraffin and polished with chamois leather or Selvyt; it is speedily ruined by harsh, gritty soaps, which are so useful for many domestic purposes. course a 149. Breakdowns. - Full directions for dealing with the normal ailments of cycles and tyres are given passim in the description of machines.
In cases of serious damage it is best, assuming that the machine is rideable, to let it alone till a skilled repairer can be secured; an infinity of harm may be done by unskilled attempts to true frames or wheels.
A broken spoke may usually be neglected for a short time. Should the wheel lose its shape, bend the ends of the broken spokes into loops and secure them together with several plies of copper wires or string, securing the required tension in the former case with a pair of pliers, in the latter with a piece of wood used as a tourniquet, and finally sprung behind the neighbouring spokes. A buckled wheel will occasionally resume its shape if the indented part be pulled outwards. Frames may be straightened by a side pressure of the foot against the crank bracket, by passing iron bars down the head socket or diagonal, and so forcing them straight, or by passing a bar through the frame lengthwise and crosswise so as to bear on both head and diagonal and levering it straight-but these are terrible remedies. Front forks which have been driven back may be straightened by sitting down and pulling, getting a purchase with the feet against the crank bracket.
Broken tubes or forks may be strongly tied to splints of wood hollowed to receive them, the wire or string being tightened by wedging.
Broken handlebars may be replaced by a stick lashed to their remains. Bent pedal pins are best dealt with by removing the frame of the pedal and riding on the bare pin. Bent cranks may be cautiously straightened in a vice; attempts to put them right when on the machine will result in worse mischief. Broken chains may often be patched up with copper wire. Broken balls should be at once removed from the bearing; on emergencies, when this has been done, the machine may be ridden, but it throws an unfair strain on the bearing.
H. GRAVES.
CYCLE RACING.-Cycling has many claims on the community outside the race path, and it is quite conceivable that it might in course of time have attained its present position without the aid of racing, but its rapid advance is indubitably due in a very great degree to cycle racing and racing men. The experience gained by the manufacturers in their efforts to meet the demands of the latter for lighter and consequently faster machines assisted very materially in the improvement of the cycle, as constructed for the ordinary user, and it is a mere truism to assert that the roadster of to-day is simply the racer of yesterday.
The subject primarily divides itself into two sections, road racing and path racing, whilst the latter may be again divided into three sub-sections, early path racing, the transition stage between ordinary bicycle and safety-bicycle racing and modern path racing, with, as a necessary pendant, a few words upon training for cycle racing.
Road Racing was, of course, the original form of the sport. All the early velocipedes were made for use upon the highways, and as the claims made for the new machine were based upon the facilities which it offered for rapid locomotion, it was only natural that many of the very earliest efforts which attracted the attention of the public, and interested them in it, took the form either of rides against time, or of actual races upon the road.
The story of the advent of the first French bicycle in London, and its exploitation in Charles Spencer's gymnasium by Mr. Rowley Turner, has often been told.
Mr. John Mayall, jun., was present at the unpacking of the crate when this strange jouet d'enfant from Paris made. its first appearance. He learnt to ride it, and early in January, 1869, was fired with a great ambition, and started from Clapham for Brighton, but was compelled to give up, completely exhausted, at Redhill, no less than 1774 miles from his starting point, and return to town by train.
After more practice he, in company with Rowley Turner and Charles Spencer, made a second attempt in the following February; and though his companions fell by the way, he succeeded in reaching Brighton alone in about sixteen hours. The feat was the subject of some public comment at the time, but as some three weeks later the brothers Chinnery walked to Brighton in eleven hours and twenty-five minutes, the advantages of the new steed, as demonstrated by Mr. Mayall's heroic efforts, were considerably discounted. Between 1869 and 1874 a number of steadily improving performances were recorded in the public press. In 1871 Messrs. R. King, H. N. Custance, and J. C. F. May, of the Amateur B.C., were probably the first bicyclists to ride one hundred miles inside twenty-four hours on the road, journeying from Amesbury to Stonehenge and back to London. Charles Spencer, who made the essay with Mayall in 1869, together with G. Hunt, C. Leaver, and William Wood, journeyed in June, 1873, from London to John o' Groat's, some 700 miles, in fifteen days, the performance evoking considerable interest; whilst William Wood in August of the same year rode to Brighton and back, 104 miles, inside eleven hours. H. Stanley Thorpe also put in some good rides; but perhaps the individual ride which did the sport most good at this juncture was accomplished in May, 1874, when the Hon. Ion Keith Falconer rode from Bournemouth to Hitchin, piling up the mileage to 135 miles, and, which was more to the point, writing a very full account of the journey for the Field. This attracted a vast amount of attention, and stimulated a large number of other bicyclists to essay long-distance rides. Amongst the names of men who accomplished big feats in this direction should be mentioned those of H. E. Kearley (now Sir Hudson Kearley), A. D. Butler, Frank Smythe, W. E. N. Coston, F. E. Appleyard, Wat Britten, H. Blackwell, jun., and many more of less note.
Libraries Lambeth By this time racing on the road was often held in an informal manner, the development of pace followed, and the road racing side of the sport grew with great rapidity.
On one occasion a twenty-four hours' contest, organised by a firm in the trade, started and finished at Anderton's Hotel in