Cloak
klok, properly a loose, sleeveless outer garment worn as a protection against the weather. The name is erroneously used to designate a garment with sleeves, worn as an outer wrap by women. This garment is properly a coat. The name cloak is derived from an Anglo-Saxon word meaning bell, and was given to this garment on account of its flowing shape. The cloak was originally a garment worn by either sex. At various times, it has been an essential and picturesque part of man's attire. In the United States the cloak is now a woman's wrap; but in some countries it is still worn by men, and is a comfortable and satisfactory garment.
During the reign of Edward IV in England the cloak was the gentleman's garment. Laws were enacted to regulate its length and to designate the persons who should be allowed to wear it. During the sixteenth century the cloak came to be a garment of everyday wear. It was cut with large, loose armholes. The style is plainly shown in certain portraits of Henry VIII. A hundred years later the changing fashion of the coat caused the cloak to be done away with, except as a protection from cold and storm. The form of the cloak has changed with other fashions. At one time a half circle was the approved shape. This was called the Spanish cloak. It was trimmed with bands of fur which followed the contour of the neck, and extended down the edges of the cloak in front. In wearing, one edge was thrown across the opposite shoulder. This style of cloak is still worn in certain Italian cities.
For many years in America the shawl was the common outer garment for women. About 1810 the pelisse, a long, loose cloak with sleeves, came into fashion, and, on account of its warmth and convenience, was much in vogue. Spencer jackets, or short cloaks, were worn at various times. From 1840 to 1860, the shawl was again the popular wrap. The beginning of the modern cloak seems to have been an attempt to cut and shape the shawl into a warmer garment, and one that would allow the hands to be used while the arms remained covered.
About 1865 heavy cloaks came into fashion. Soon it was found that the former methods of home and individual manufacture were unsatisfactory, when applied to thick, heavy materials. The beginning of the trade in ready-to-wear cloaks was made by a few of the larger New York houses. A small number of cloaks were made up from the best Parisian models. So successful did this attempt prove that some firms gave up their other business entirely for cloakmaking. At first the cloaks were cut in one size only; soon in three sizes, small, large, and medium. At present many sizes are made, so that any figure may be fitted in readymade cloaks.
In the early days of cloak making a fashion was good for a whole season. The manufacturer could anticipate the trade and make up a stock beforehand. At present this is impossible, as fashions change so suddenly. The result is that cloakmaking establishments are large, employ an immense number of workers, and are managed with the best possible system, that satisfactory garments may be turned out on short notice. The successful manufacturer must have judgment and ability to foresee the public taste, that he may meet the demand without producing an over supply. The inspectors of cloth, fit, and workmanship are responsible members of the force, and good models, or "figures" to whom the garment may be fitted, are much in demand.