The Cue
Each player has his fancy as regards a cue. Some like a very heavy U2 cue. cue, thick in the butt, and very tapering towards the point; others prefer a light one, with a broad point. Some prefer a short, others a long cue. Some writers have laid down certain laws relative to the length of the cue as compared with the player's height. All such laws are empirical. A player must choose a cue for himself by trial, and when he finds one to suit him, let him buy it, and always play with the same Rules have also been laid down as to how the cue should be held; but this again is a case where each player must judge for himself. Making the "bridge" is a matter of no importance in detail, as long as this "bridge" is firm and steady.
Some players spread their fingers wide apart and elevate the thumb considerably; others keep the fingers close together and elevate the thumb only slightly. Keep the important point in view, viz., that the bridge must be firm and rigid, and then try to obtain this result as best suits the form of hand. The cue should be held in such a manner with the right hand that perfect freedom is given to the arm when making the stroke. If the hand and wrist be cramped in any way by the manner in which the cue is grasped, an accurate stroke cannot be made. If the cue is held too far back, the right arm is unable to be swung freely and true strokes cannot be made. To strike a ball with the cue when it is under the cushion, the cue should be grasped about the middle with the right hand; no contortions will then be necessary to play from under the cushion. When it is necessary to shift the cue to play a stroke behind the back, the cue should be released by the right hand, and the butt passed round in front of the body, and again grasped by the right hand behind the back.
In order that the cue be used efficiently, it is necessary that the player stand firmly on his feet. The position for playing a stroke at billiards is very similar to that adopted when boxing. The left foot (if the player be right handed) should be advanced, the toe pointing towards the ball to be played at, the right foot should be drawn back, the foot turned at right angles to the line of the left foot. In this position the player can stand firmly, and when, in addition, the left hand is placed on the table, the striker's body is as it should be rigid.
To stand with the feet close together, or on one leg, causes the body to sway about and renders uncertain any stroke. The head should be raised so as to look down on the table, not lowered almost to the level of the cue. By keeping the head up a better view is obtained of the angle [BILLIARDS one formed by two imaginary lines, drawn from a pocket or ball, to the ball to be played at, the second line drawn from the ball to be played at to the striker's ball. One can test in the following manner how much more accurately one can judge an angle by looking down on it: draw on paper two lines forming an angle, then hold the paper horizontal and on a level with the eye, and it will be found difficult to estimate what the angle is; then look directly down on the paper, and you will be able to approximate very closely to the correct angle.
One of the most common causes of bad play among amateurs is that they work the right arm like a pump handle. The result of this is that the point of the cue works up and down in a corresponding manner, and consequently it becomes almost a matter of chance where they strike their own ball.
They aim at a point on their own ball, probably below its centre, with the intention of making a screw. By the pump-handle movement they draw back the cue, and strike their ball, not where they had been aiming, but probably near the top, and thus give to their own ball a "follow" instead of a screw. Year after year these amateurs (and I know scores of them) will continue doing the same thing, and will assert that they cannot make a screw or twist, "it is beyond them," whereas if they merely held and worked their cues correctly, and consequently struck their own ball exactly where they aimed, they could accomplish the screw with the greatest ease.
As a matter of practice, any person may correct this elementary but serious error by securing the services of a looker-on, who ought to stand opposite the player, and tell him when his action is such as to cause the cue to move up and down. The action should then be altered, until the cue is moved backward and forward, in the same straight line.
No person can ever reach the position of even a moderately good player who does not stand firmly for his stroke, or who works his cue up and down before making his stroke. Several amateurs whom I have taken in hand and drilled as regards these two items have in consequence improved fully fifteen points in one hundred. This elementary drill was given to me when I was a mere child, and I have experienced its value in many a tough match.
The point of the cue should be chalked after every four or five strokes. To "miss cue," as it is termed that is, for the cue to slip off the ball is almost entirely due to carelessness in not chalking the cue; but BILLIARDS] such a "miss" loses many a game with some players.
Whenever the chance occurs, an amateur should not lose the opportunity of seeing a good professional play a match. If, however, the attention be directed only to the length of the breaks, but slight benefit will be derived from the exhibition. The manner in which the cue is held under various conditions, the form of the bridge, the method of standing for varied strokes, the way in which the rest is held, should all be matters for the keenest observation, and to be imitated and practised at leisure.
Thus the very best lesson that can be received is by watching first-class professionals; but merely to look on at a game, and not to note the details to which reference has been made, is not a profitable proceeding.