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Turnspit

which in days gone by was used by cooks to turn the spit when joints of meat were being roasted. During the last twenty or thirty years he has become very DACHSHUND. fashionable as a companion, but when occasion requires he will hunt the line of game as well as the Basset hound. He also has a long body with short legs, and is crooked in his forelegs, but is smaller and differs in colour, inasmuch as he is generally black and tan, chocolate and red, though a few DOGS] are dappled. He is usually smooth-coated, and his skin is particularly soft and velvety to the touch. Wire-coated and long-haired dachshunds are sometimes seen, occasions of their being produced from smooth-coated parents not being unusual.

The Great Dane, under which denomination is included the Boarhound, German kept in the country, he has certainly lost ground. He cannot be kept under proper control, objects strongly to the muzzle, and, MASTIFF.

GREAT DANE.

Mastiff, and Tiger Mastiff, is an unusually powerful dog that has hunted the wild boar in Germany and other European countries, and is generally to be seen with cropped He is somewhat like the English mastiff, but more slender in build and taller.

At one time he appeared likely to become fashionable as a companion, and was taken ears. now that the Kennel Club has forbidden cropping, he is bereft of much of his smart appearance.

The Borzoi or Russian Wolfhound is another dog which has been introduced to us with a great reputation as a hunter of wolves, but he again, after receiving considerable attention for a few years, appeared to be losing his influence, for, like all other dogs that hunt their game by sight, he is given to chasing little dogs and soon disposing of them. However, a Borzoi Club has been formed, a special show of the variety held, and he seems to be regain- BORZOI.

BOARHOUND. up as a favourite by ladies and others; but his popularity was not destined to continue, and although a considerable number are VOL. II ing favour. He is one of the most beautiful of the canine race, and is highly appreciated in Russia; his elegant proportions, expressive face, attractive colour, and silky coat all combine to give him a most aristocratic appearance. In his own country a perfect wolfhound must run up to a wolf, collar him by the neck just under the ear, and, with the two animals rolling over, the hound must never lose his hold, or the wolf PERSIAN GREYHOUND. would turn round and snap him through the leg. Three of these hounds hold the biggest wolf powerless, so that the men can dismount from their horses and muzzle the wolf to take him alive.

The Persian Greyhound is another of the race of Greyhounds, and he is usually yellow-fawn in colour and very symmetrical in build. His chief peculiarity is the distribution of the coat, which is longer at the sides of the body and down the legs and thighs than it is on the back; the ears, which lie flat to the head, are heavily fringed. He is about the size of a small greyhound.

Somewhat of the same type is the Rampur Hound, but quite smooth in coat, GRIFFON. and without the arched loin that is such an important feature in the greyhound; he has large ears, in this particular partaking of the nature of the foxhound; but very [DOGS few of his breed have been seen in this country. a The Griffon (French), resembling the German wire-haired pointers, which takes the place of a setter in some parts of the Continent, has also found a home in England. He cannot be better described than as like a small otter-hound, possessing the intelligent expression and fine type of head of that hound, but in colour he is usually a liver-roan, and has a shorter and more wiry coat; his tail is shortened to half its natural length. He is steady with the gun, and will point game and retrieve, but he is not a wide ranger.

The Norwegian Hound, of which a considerable number have been imported, is a particularly active dog, dark blue-grey, peculiarly shaded, in body colour, with lighter hue of the same on legs and chest.

NORWEGIAN ELK HOUND.

He is not unlike the Esquimaux dog in shape, with prick ears and tightly curled tail, but is somewhat smaller. His chief duty in Norway, his native country, is to hunt the elk, the bear, and even capercailzie and such "small deer," and it is said he displays extraordinary sagacity in the various departments for which he is specially trained. FRED GRESHAM.

DISEASES OF DOGS.

In dealing with this subject, it must be understood that allusion is only made here to simple ailments that can be treated without the assistance of a veterinary surgeon. The most formidable malady which confronts the kennel owner is undoubtedly distemper, which, as a rule, attacks dogs in their early youth, before they are twelve months old. There is a very general belief DOGS] that every dog must have distemper at some time of its life, but this is a mistake, for distemper, being a contagious disease, cannot be contracted except by contact with an infected dog or substance-e.g., the clothes of a keeper who has attended a sick dog, a box in which it has travelled, or anything of like nature. The symptoms are SPANIEL UNDER A GUN. loss of appetite in the first instance, followed by a falling away of the muscles of the face, and eventually a discharge of mucus from the eyes and nose, accompanied by a temperature of over 100. In the incipient stage, before the disease has pronounced itself, it is always safe to give a dose of castor oil, consisting of a dessertspoonful to a tablespoonful, according to the size and age of the patient. In the event of this failing to bring back the appetite, recourse should be had at once to a veterinary surgeon.

The various forms of skin diseases are generally amenable to treatment if attended to promptly. There are two descriptions of mange, the sarcoptic and follicular. The former is the more easy to cure, and its presence may be detected by the dog continually scratching itself; a bath composed of one part of some disinfecting fluid to forty parts of water, or a mixture of two parts of olive oil with one part of paraffin oil and half a pound of sulphur, well rubbed into the skin, will kill the parasite and eradicate the disease. Follicular mange is not so easily dealt with, as the parasite is buried beneath the skin, but by continually dressing with the paraffin mixture at an interval of from ten to fourteen days a satisfactory result may be obtained. Eczema, which is not a parasitic affection, will generally yield to similar treatment, if accompanied by mild aperients and afterwards by simple tonics.

Arsenic is sometimes necessary, but the latter should not be given except under medical instructions. Very little skin disease will be experienced if the bath is freely used, for by that means the skin is kept clean, and fleas and other insects a source of continual irritation to dogs in warm weather-are destroyed. There is, however, no better mode of dispersing fleas than to rub a small quantity of pyrethrum powder into the coat.

Canker in the ear may be detected by a continual shaking of the head, more particularly after a slight pressure of the hand upon the ear. In an advanced stage the head will be held on one side, with one ear hanging lower than the other. For this complaint there are fortunately several remedies, for what will cure one dog may be of little benefit to another. One part of liquor plumbi to two parts of soft water; boracic acid dusted into the ear, or the same mixed with oil; a tablespoonful of methylated spirit in a pint of water will all be found effectual for one or other of the cases that may occur. Another simple and excellent application is a lotion consisting of five grains of alum, one drachm of vinegar and one ounce of water, but, before applying either, the ear must be carefully cleaned IRISH WATER SPANIEL. with warm water and a soft sponge. Any liquid that is poured into the ear should be luke-warm.

All dogs are very liable to pick up poison, which is so often carelessly, and almost criminally, laid about for the destruction of mice, rats, and other vermin. If you suspect that your dog has obtained poison, and a veterinary surgeon or chemist is not at hand, empty the stomach by administer- I2 ing the simple emetic, lukewarm water, and, this done, give milk and white of eggs, or boiled flour and milk, or butter, lard, fat, or olive oil. However, if tartar emetic or sulphate of zinc is handy, give a dose of either in preference to the luke-warm water. Castor oil administered later on is useful, and if exhaustion is apparent, brandy, wine, or strong beef tea ought to be given to the patient. Arsenic, phosphorus, and strychnine are the most DOG BREAKING. SPRINGING AT A RABBIT. • common "rat-poisons," the effect of strychnine being marked by frequent contraction of the limbs and cramps. Arsenical poisoning may, as a rule, be detected by swelling and violent pains in the bowels, accompanied by purging, feverishness, and unnatural thirst. The symptoms of poison by phosphorus take the form of peculiar listlessness and giddiness, vomiting, and an aroma from the mouth not unlike the smell of garlic or of lucifer matches. Although cases of poisoning of this kind must be alluded to here, it is always best to obtain skilled professional advice as soon as possible. [See VETERINARY WORK.] There are a few simple rules with regard to the management of dogs which should always be borne in mind by the kennel-man or by the master. Grass is an important factor towards promoting the health of dogs; the first remedy which nature dictates to him for any sickness is a blade from the greensward. Attention to sanitary arrangement and the ventilation of kennels are likewise of primary importance, whilst regularity in feeding, a continuous supply of pure water, clean, dry bedding and benches, and sufficient exercise will not only add to [DOGS the dog's comfort, but maintain him in the best possible condition.

BREAKING AND TRAINING.

Different views are held by breakers as to the best mode to adopt in training young pointers and setters for shooting purposes.

A prominent owner of field trial winners, when commencing to handle his puppies, allows them to chase birds as much as they like to begin with, his opinion being that the more they do so, the greater is their anxiety to hunt for and find them. In fact, he says that the most successful dogs that he has owned have all been broken in this way, and that those puppies which are too much schooled at first do not develop sufficient dash, will not range wide enough, and in the end become potterers. When his puppies begin to show signs of pointing, he makes much of them, and they soon give up their bad habit of chasing, and are easily made steady at point. He does not use the check cord, nor, except on very rare occasions, does he have recourse to the puzzle peg. Two things that add greatly to the facility of breaking young sporting dogs are, first, that they be bred from parents that have good reputations as workers, and secondly, that they have confidence in their owners. To obtain confidence they should be constantly in their presence, for the puppy that accompanies his master on all possible occasions will soon find out what he is wanted to do; thus all the earlier lessons, such as teaching him to drop to hand, to keep to heel, and being held on, are easily acquired. A perfectly DOG BREAKING. A LESSON IN RETRIEVING. raw puppy can easily be taught to down charge in a few hours without the use of pegs, spike collars, or any other of the contrivances that are used by some breakers. Take your pupil into a large field, some distance from home, put him down on his belly, and hold up your hand, at the same time continually repeating the words "Down charge." Walk a few paces back- DOGS] wards from him, and when he gets up to follow you, as he will do at first, take him back and put him down again. By such means he will soon drop to hand when desired, and it will take only a few lessons to teach him to keep to heel, if a little kindness is shown and encouragement given.

Having once taught the puppy to drop to hand, and keep to heel, two most important rungs of the ladder have been climbed, and the first lessons in obedience have been in- RETRIEVING A HARE. stilled. Some breakers choose the spring of the year, when birds are paired, to make their young pointers and setters perfect at point, but there are objections to this, inasmuch as there is no possibility of killing a bird to them, and rewarding them for any special good work that they may have done.

Some drilling must of course be done in the spring, but it is better to give the finishing touch at the latter end of August or the beginning of September. The loss of a few days' shooting may be the result, but this will be amply recompensed in the greater proficiency that the dog will acquire.

When, however, field trials are in contemplation, the work must all be done in the early spring. In the present day, when so little covert is to be met with, it is absolutely necessary that pointers and setters should be free rangers. During tuition they should be encouraged to take wide beats, but the whistle must always be used when they get to the fence, and so they are taught not to break field. For the first two or three times when birds are flushed, the inexperienced puppy will most probably chase them as far as he can see them. This should not be interfered with, except by the whistle when the fence is reached. On the puppy's return, however, he should be dropped to hand at the place where he started to chase, this to be done with a view to teaching him to drop to wing. When holding him on at the commencement of a beat, care must be taken to give him the wind, for it is very unlikely that even the most perfectly broken animal will find birds when the wind is against him, how much less then is it probable that a novice can do so. If this principle be steadily adopted, the dog will in due time seek the wind himself.

The endeavour must always be to encourage the young dog by rewards and flattery to use his brains as well as his nose, for without this combination no pointer or setter can be a perfect birdfinder. A golden rule in connection with tutoring puppies is not to do too much with them at one time, and always, if possible, to take them home after they have done a meritorious action, at the same time letting them know that you are pleased with them. Now supposing that the puppy has learnt all the minor details of breaking, will quarter his ground properly, perly , does not break fence, will drop to hand, wing, and shot, is steady at point, and is obedient to whistle and word of command, his education is still a long way from being complete. He must yet be taught to back, and he may be gun-shy, though that fault is more frequent with dogs that are kept shut up in kennels than with those that more or less have their liberty and become accustomed to all sorts of unusual sounds.

If there is the slightest inclination to be gun-shy, the endeavour must be to make RETRIEVING A PHEASANT IN WATER. the offender aware that the sound of the gun will not hurt him, but rather that it is associated with something from which pleasure is to be derived. All sorts of plans have been adopted to accustom young dogs to the sound of the gun, some men even firing off a pistol a short distance from the kennel just before feeding, while another method is to couple the puppy to an old dog which is perfectly steady to shot.

Some offenders in this direction will gain a confidence after a few birds have been killed to them, and not again show any nervousness, but in the case of a puppy a gun should not be fired over him unless a kill is certain, when he will probably be so pleased with the result as to become reconciled to the sound. If a dog is decidedly gun-shy, it is only waste of time to try to cure him.

When teaching a puppy to back, it is desirable that he be taken out with a wellseasoned and perfectly steady dog. On seeing the latter make a point, the youngster may back of his own accord, or he may run in, and either flush the birds or take the point, or possibly may not take any notice whatever. Should he not behave properly, the handler must wait until he can get the puppy behind the pointing dog and then put him down; but if, after this has been repeated a few times, there is no improve- RETRIEVING SPANIEL. ment, the check cord and peg must be brought into use. Before being pegged down, the puppy must have been accustomed to being tied up, or he will struggle to get free, and all the time that has been bestowed upon his training will probably be thrown away.

A bad habit which some dogs contract when being worked as one of a brace is following close on the heels of their companion, which very often perplexes the leading dog. This under any circumstances is most objectionable, and is unpardonable in an adult pointer or setter; but puppies can sometimes be cured of it. False pointing is another fault; this is the result of overtraining, but it is often a sign that, although the dog knows his work, he has not a good nose and has no confidence in himself, or, like blinking, it may be brought about by fear of punishment. One of the most important attributes in a pointer or setter is that he should carry his head high when in quest of game, and if he goes with his [DOGS head low, the puzzle peg may be used; but this requires great care in adjusting. Some breakers commence by using the check cord, but there is no doubt that, to a certain extent, it cramps the action of the wearer; nevertheless, if a puppy persists in declining to point, or back, or in chasing fur, it must be used. In districts where there are plenty of hares there is not much difficulty in making a dog steady to fur, but when they are not often met with some live rabbits may be turned down, and the pupil put through his lessons with the check cord and peg.

These instruments are next to a necessity in training a retriever-in fact, it is only the most thoroughly broken dogs of this breed that can ever be taken out without a check cord or lead. A retriever puppy, like young pointers and setters, may be taken in hand as soon as he has outgrown his puppy habits, which may be any time between five and ten months old. As a rule there is not much difficulty in teaching him to fetch and carry, his early tuition commencing with a glove or a soft india-rubber ball. It will greatly facilitate matters in this respect if a reward is ready for him in the shape of a piece of meat or other dainty when he is having his lessons. Then, as to dropping to hand, the same tactics must be employed as those already described for pointers and setters. You next want him to hunt on his own account, and this may be done by hiding the ball and encouraging him to seek for it; he will have partly learnt this lesson when seeking for the ball that he had seen thrown and that had rolled out of sight. Here again he must be rewarded on completing his task, and also when he is obedient to whistle. With the check cord you can make him keep to heel, and then there is only one more accomplishment for him to acquire before he is ready to be entered on game, and that is to take to water freely. Most dogs, if they have not been forced when puppies to go in against their will, are fond of the water, more particularly retrievers, which inherit the liking for it from the Newfoundland or Irish water spaniel. If, however, there is any difficulty in persuading the dog to enter the water, choose a warm day, and place a ball, a piece of biscuit, or anything that he likes, close to the edge of the stream, then a little way in, and so on until he has to swim for it. He must be well rewarded when he has brought it, if the ball has been used.

That a retriever should not mangle his game is most important, and he should carry it in his mouth alive without injuring a DOGS] feather or disturbing a hair. At the same time it is dangerous to let a puppy begin by retrieving a wounded bird, and it is better to stop the dog and knock the bird on the head first than to run the risk of the former giving it a nip, and so laying the foundation of a bad habit. Should a runner be lost in a fence, after the puppy has had plenty of time to try to find it, a dead bird should be placed somewhere near the spot. and the reward given in the same way as if the lost bird had been found. It is not unusual for an untutored retriever to attempt to make a meal of his find; under these circumstances there is used an instrument called a retriever bit, which is in the 66 THE BIRD BROUGHT TO HAND. on shape of the letter U and lies on the dog's grinders," preventing his mouth from shutting. This, like the spike collar, is an expedient only worth trying when the puppy to be experimented upon promises in every other respect to make a perfect retriever. Game should be retrieved quickly, and when there is any hesitation in this respect the dog becomes subject to suspicion.

He would most likely eat the bird if he thought he could do so without being found out. A puppy should not be allowed to retrieve fur until it has been well broken on feather. Spaniels may be taught to drop to hand and shot in the same way as pointers and setters, but, as it is a sine qua non that they should not hunt out of gunshot, the check cord is necessary in breaking them, if they are to be quickly got ready to enter upon game. Clumbers, more particularly, are worked in teams; when they are first handled, the man in command should have another person with him to act as whipper-in to teach them to answer quickly to the whistle. With this assistant present, the principal need not carry whip, and, as his companion does all the rating, the spaniels are more willing to hunt a THE TATE LIBRARY, BRIXTON, S.W close to him. The peg will be required to break them from chasing, but with unruly spaniels it is sometimes the custom to put put a belt or collar with a few pounds of shot in it round their necks, or to put a bandage on one of their hind legs. Then, in order that the guns may be able to discern in what direction the dogs are working when they are beating thick coverts, bells are sometimes attached to their collars. A wellbroken spaniel that will keep within twenty yards of the guns, and retrieves, is a very useful dog to shoot over, either when hunted in a team or singly, whether the variety be a Clumber, a Sussex, a Field, or a Norfolk.

The Irish water spaniel requires much the same tuition as the retriever. [See also SHOOTING.] RAWDON B. LEE.

FRED GRESHAM.

GLOSSARY.

Blaze. A white mark up the face.

Brisket. The front of the chest.

Button Ear. An ear which falls over in front, concealing the interior, as in fox-terriers.