Click Spring
American Watchmaker and Jeweler (1892)
The spring which holds the click in position on a ratchet wheel's tooth. To Mount a Click Spring. When the old click spring has been taken down from the bridge, find a new one, which, in length from click to foot, into which the holes are drilled for fastening, is suited to the shape and length of the bridge. With three claws fasten this latter in an uprighting tool, placing the centering center into the screw hole of the bridge, which serves for screwing on the click spring. When the bridge has in this manner been mounted well upon the plate of the uprighting tool, raise up the centering center and lay the new click spring exactly as it is to be located in its place upon the bridge, carefully preventing the claws from covering that part of the bridge to which the spring is fastened. The upper face of the spring must, by so much as will be lost afterwards in grinding and polishing, protrude beyond the surface of the barrel bridge. Then retain the spring in its place by applying a finger, and lower the point of the uprighting tool upon the click spring, making a dot by applying a gentle pressure exactly at the true spot. This dot is enlarged by punching, and a hole is then drilled exactly to suit the size of the screw. The burr is next removed, and the spring finished suitable to shape and length. If the bridge contains a foot pin hole, bush it by firmly driving into it a brass pin, file off its projecting part level with the bridge, and screw the spring in place. Then drill, as closely as possible, to the extreme end of the spring, a small hole for the pin, clear through into the bridge. Harden the spring, anneal it, chamfer and polish the edges, grind and polish the surface; fit the foot pin.
What Has Changed in the Last Century
The procedure the American Watchmaker and Jeweler set out in 1892 — centering the bridge in an uprighting tool, dotting and drilling the screw hole, then hardening, tempering and polishing the new spring — is still exactly how a restorer fits a click spring to an antique watch, and the uprighting tool itself is unchanged in principle. What has changed is how rarely anyone needs to: after the quartz crisis of the 1970s the mechanical trade shrank drastically, and a modern watchmaker facing a broken click spring almost always orders the factory replacement part for that calibre rather than filing one from blued steel. Many later movements also combine click and spring into a single formed piece, so there is no separate spring to mount at all. The 1892 instructions read less as routine shop work now than as a conservation technique.
Written for this edition, 2026.