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Collar

Aiton's Encyclopedia (1910)

the neckband of a coat, cloak, gown, or other garment, either standing or rolled over. Separate bands or ruffs of muslin, linen, lace, or fur have been known for centuries. Various decorative collars are a part of the insignia or regalia of certain orders. Collars of a particular pattern are worn as a mark of dignity by knights, bishops, and others of rank. A hempen collar is a sorry jest for the hangman's rope. The detachable linen shirt collar is said to be an American invention, first made at Troy, New York . The manufacture of Troy collars was begun in 1829 by Ebenezer Brown. Detachable cuffs were made as early as 1845, and the "Troy Laundry" grew up as a collateral branch of business. At first the maker got on by cutting one collar at a time with a pair of scissors and making it by hand. Some of the steps in the advancement of the business that may be mentioned are the cutting of a pile of cloth of many thicknesses at one operation; the use of sewing machines for stitching; and the introduction of buttonhole machines. The business has grown so large that it would now be an impossibility to do the work by hand. The making of collars and cuffs is the most highly centralized industry in the United States . Nine-tenths of American collars and cuffs are made in the city of Troy and less than one percent are made outside of the state of New York. According to the last census the industry employs 17,115 people, who draw wages to the amount of $5,658,969, annually, and make 10,086,045 dozens of collars and cuffs each year, worth $15,769,132. See Laundry

What Has Changed in the Last Century

Aiton's in 1910 could call collar-and-cuff making "the most highly centralized industry in the United States," with nine-tenths of American collars sewn in Troy, New York, and over 17,000 workers making ten million dozen a year. The detachable collar itself has since all but vanished: soft attached collars took over men's shirts in the 1920s and 1930s, and the stiff detachable band survives mainly in clerical dress, formal court and academic wear, and among vintage dressers. Troy is still nicknamed the Collar City, but its collar mills are gone; Cluett, Peabody & Co., the firm behind the Arrow brand, is remembered less for collars now than for the Sanforized shrink-resistance process it trademarked in 1930. The older parts of the entry hold up — collars as insignia of knightly orders and bishops, and the grim "hempen collar" joke, are unchanged.

Written for this edition, 2026.