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Fabric

Aiton's Encyclopedia (1910)

a cloth formed from fibrous material. The word fabric is from a Latin word meaning workshop. A structure of any kind may be called properly a fabric. Distinctively, cloth is a textile fabric, but the unmodified word fabric is in common use to designate cloth of any variety. The principal materials of which fabrics are made are cotton, flax, hemp, wool, mohair, and silk. Fabrics may be produced by weaving, knitting, and crocheting, felting, netting, braiding, and by tapestry work. 1. Woven fabrics are produced in a loom by two sets of interlacing threads, running respectively lengthwise and crosswise. 2. Knitted and crocheted fabrics are formed by loops of a single thread, each loop being drawn through the preceding loop, or each series of loops through the preceding series. 3. Felted fabrics are produced by the permanent matting of animal fibers. 4. Netting is closely akin to weaving, but the threads are knotted to form meshes instead of being interlaced. 5. In braiding, the threads are interlaced, but only one set of threads is used. These run in a serpentine or zigzag fashion from side to side. 6. Tapestry is a fabric in which one set of threads is used as a foundation, and short threads are interlaced by hand in such a fashion as to entirely encase the foundation threads. By far the greater number of fabrics in common use are woven. Many varieties are regarded as standard; others are classed as novelties, appearing only during short periods. Old fabrics are frequently revived under new names. The most important varieties of weaving are plain weave, twill, satin weave, pile weave, Jacquard or figured weaving, corded, and ribbed weaving. Standard fabrics produced by plain weaving are taffeta silk, flannel, calico, bunting, and canvas. In these the weave is plainly visible. Broadcloth and outing cloth are varieties of plain weave in which the weave is concealed by the nap. Twill weaving is seen in serge, cashmere, the right side of canton flannel , surah silk, and many other fabrics. Satin weave, which is a special adaptation of the principle involved in twill weaving, is the peculiar characteristic of satin and of damask. Jacquard or figured weave is seen in figured damask, in brocades, and in all loom-figured fabrics on which the design is large or spreading. Bedford cord and corduroy are examples of corded fabrics; grosgrain silk and rep, of ribbed fabrics. To pile-woven textiles belong velvet, plush, corduroy, and astrakhan cloth. See Weaving ; Jacquard ; Netting ; Knitting ; Crocheting; Felt ; Braid ; Tapestry ; Pile Fabrics ; Twill ; Satin ; Napping

What Has Changed in the Last Century

Aiton's list of 1910 names only natural materials "cotton, flax, hemp, wool, mohair, and silk" ibres barely existed then. Nylon followed in 1935, polyester in the 1940s, and today man-made fibres account for roughly two-thirds of world fibre production, with polyester alone outweighing cotton by more than two to one. The six methods of construction still hold, though modern nonwovens abrics bonded by heat, chemicals or spun straight from molten polymer into surgical masks, geotextiles and wipes it only awkwardly under "felting". The weaving vocabulary itself affeta, twill, satin weave, Jacquard, pile is unchanged and would still be recognised in any mill or fabric shop.

Written for this edition, 2026.