To Amalgamate Zincs
Important: Safety Warning
This page contains a formula or preparation using substances now known to be dangerously toxic, such as arsenic, mercury, lead, or cyanide compounds. Exposure to these substances can cause severe poisoning, permanent injury, or death.
In addition, this page describes trade processes that use dangerously toxic materials such as cyanide solutions, mercury amalgams, or strong acids. These processes require training, equipment, and precautions far beyond what the text describes.
This information has been left in for historical purposes but should not be acted upon.
This may be very well done by first immersing the zincs in a solution of dilute sulphuric acid and then in a bath of mercury. A brush or cloth may be used to rub them, so as to reach all points of the surface. Where a large quantity is to be amalgamated, the following will be found to be a good method: Dissolve eight ounces of mercury in a mixture consisting of two lbs. of hydrochloric and one lb. of nitric acid; when the solution is complete, add three lbs. more of hydrochloric acid. The zinc is amalgamated by immersing it in this solution for a few seconds, quickly removing to a vat of clear water and rubbing it, as in the first case, with a brush or cloth. If the solution is kept in a covered vessel it may be used a number of times. In all batteries in which acids are used the zincs should be kept well amalgamated and should be removed from the solution when not in use. This is very important and should not be overlooked.
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To Anneal Small Steel Pieces
Place the articles from which you desire to draw the temper into a common iron clock key. Fill around it with brass or iron filings, and then plug up the open end with a steel iron or brass plug, made to fit closely. Take the handle of the key with your pliers and hold its pipe into the blaze of a lamp till red hot, then let it cool gradually. When sufficiently cold to handle, remove the plug, and you will find the article with its temper fully drawn, but in all other respects just as it was before. The reason for having the article thus plugged up while passing it through the heating and cooling process is, that springing always results from the action of changeable currents of atmosphere. The temper may be drawn from cylinders, staffs, pinions, or any other delicate pieces by this mode with perfect safety.
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To Anneal Steel
There are nearly as many methods of annealing as there are workmen. The commonest methods are as follows: Heat to a dull red, bury in warm iron filings or ashes, and allowing the article to cool very gradually. Another method is to heat the piece as slowly as possible, and when at a low red heat put it between two pieces of dry board and screw them tightly in a vise. The steel burns its way into the wood, and on coming together around it they form a practically air-tight charcoal bed. Brannt gives the following method, which he says will make steel so soft that it can be worked like copper: Pulverize beef bones, mix them with equal parts of loam and calves' hair and stir the mixture into a thick paste with water. Apply a coat of this to the steel and place it in a crucible, cover this with another, fasten the two together with wire and close the joint hermetically with clay. Then put the crucible in the fire and heat slowly. When taken from the fire let it cool by placing it in ashes. On opening the crucible the steel will be found so soft that it can be engraved like copper.
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To Blue Screws
See Blueing Pan.
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To Clean Brass
Important: Safety Warning
This page describes trade processes that use dangerously toxic materials such as cyanide solutions, mercury amalgams, or strong acids. These processes require training, equipment, and precautions far beyond what the text describes.
This information has been left in for historical purposes but should not be acted upon.
To clean old brass, especially small figures, paper knives, etc., immerse them in a mixture of one part of nitric acid and half part of sulphuric acid. Allow them to remain a short time, rinse thoroughly in cold water, dry in sawdust and polish with Vienna lime, when they will appear like new.
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To Clean Metal Dials
Important: Safety Warning
This page describes trade processes that use dangerously toxic materials such as cyanide solutions, mercury amalgams, or strong acids. These processes require training, equipment, and precautions far beyond what the text describes.
This information has been left in for historical purposes but should not be acted upon.
Silver and gold dials can be restored by gently heating the back over a spirit lamp and dipping the dial in diluted nitric acid. If the figures are painted however, they will be removed, and it will be necessary to repaint them, but if they are enameled on, the enamel will not be injured. If the figures are painted the dial may be cleaned by brushing with powdered cream of tarter either dry or in the form of a paste mixed with water. Avoid all the painted portions and work the paste in between the painted portions with a pointed peg wood. Wash with warm water and dry by carefully patting with a soft linen rag. To Grind Enamel from the Back of Dial. It is sometimes necessary to remove a portion of the enamel from the back of a dial to allow room for the motion work, etc. The most convenient method is to grind the back with emery, preferably in the shape of a wheel. Water should be applied to the work from time to time to prevent heating.
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To Clean Nickel
Important: Safety Warning
This page describes trade processes that use dangerously toxic materials such as cyanide solutions, mercury amalgams, or strong acids. These processes require training, equipment, and precautions far beyond what the text describes.
This information has been left in for historical purposes but should not be acted upon.
The nickel plates of watches are sometimes found to have rust stains upon them. These can be removed by rubbing the spot with grease, allowing them to stand for a few days, and rubbing thoroughly with a cloth moistened with ammonia. In obstinate cases, repeat the operation or touch the stains with dilute hydrochloric acid and rub thoroughly. Rinse in clean water and polish. A mixture of fifty parts of rectified alcohol and one part of sulphuric acid is also valuable for cleaning nickel plates. Immerse for ten or fifteen seconds, no longer, rinse in alcohol, and dry in sawdust.
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To Clean Pendulums
Important: Safety Warning
This page describes trade processes that use dangerously toxic materials such as cyanide solutions, mercury amalgams, or strong acids. These processes require training, equipment, and precautions far beyond what the text describes.
This information has been left in for historical purposes but should not be acted upon.
Brass pendulum bobs are often found with black stains upon them that prove very obstinate to remove. Heat the bob moderately, touch the stains with a brush dipped in nitric acid, rub with a linen rag and again heat moderately.
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To Clean Silver
Important: Safety Warning
This page describes trade processes that use dangerously toxic materials such as cyanide solutions, mercury amalgams, or strong acids. These processes require training, equipment, and precautions far beyond what the text describes.
This information has been left in for historical purposes but should not be acted upon.
Articles of silver, either solid or plated, are quickly and easily cleaned by dipping in a moderate concentrated solution of potassium cyanide and then thoroughly rinsing in water. Jewelers will find it very convenient to have three stone jars, with tight fitting covers, to exclude all dirt. Label the jars "Cyanide," "1st Water" and "Second Water.' In these, large pieces of silverware can be cleaned with ease by dipping into the cyanide, then into jar number one and then jar number two. Dry with a soft linen rag and the articles will be found free from all stains.
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