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Liverpool

In walking round, and coming to the great black fences, some of which a man of medium height cannot see over, it appears wonderful that tired horses should ever get over them, for they have to be jumped, as they cannot be brushed through. And here it may be remarked that thin straggling fences are the most dangerous, for this reason: a horse that is tolerably well accustomed to them will find that he need not clear them, that they can be chanced; he will rise less and less by degrees; but there is a point of resistance half-way up or so, through which he cannot brush; this he will at length find, and will be turned over in consequence.

A description of Liverpool is here given.

There are two or three very awkward fences, one on the turn which requires to be done with care and consideration in order to avoid the necessity of suddenly wrenching the horse round to the left on landing, and another with a broadish ditch on the landing side into which a horse that jumps short is apt to drop his hind legs.

DESCRIPTION OF THE FENCES CONSTITUTING THE GRAND NATIONAL STEEPLECHASE.

Thorn fence, 5 ft. high and I and 17. 2 ft. thick. 2 and 18. Thorn fence, 5 ft. high, guard rail on take off side 2 ft. high, close up against fence. 3 and 19. Thorn fence, 4 ft. Io in. high, with ditch on take off side about 6 ft. wide and 4 ft. deep, and a rail in front of said ditch 2 ft. high. 4 and 20.-Rail and fence, the rail being 2 ft. 6 in. high and the fence 5 ft. high. 5 and 21. Same as No. 1. 6 and 22.-Known as "Becher's Brook," a thick thorn fence, 4 ft. IO in. high, with rail 2 ft. in front and a natural brook about 8 ft. wide on the far side and 4 ft. deep.

After Harrington Bird.

STEEPLECHASING.

Harington Bird THE TATE LIBRARY, BRIXTON, S.W.

STUD BOOKS] 7 and 23.-Thorn fence, 4 ft. IO in. high, with rail in front 2 ft. 6 in. high. 8 and 24.-Thorn fence, 5 ft. high, ditch on take off side 5 or 6 ft. wide, and rail in front 2 ft. high. 9 and 25.-Known as "Valentine's Brook," a thorn fence 5 ft. high, with a rail in front 2 ft. high, and brook on far side.

IO and 26.-Thorn fence, 4 ft. IO in. high, and 2 ft. thick.

II and 27.-Rail 2 ft. high, a ditch about 7 ft. wide and 4 ft. deep, and a thorn fence on far side 4 ft. 6 in. high. 12 and 28. Rail 2 ft. high, fence 5 ft. high, and ditch on far side 6 ft. wide. 13, 14, 29, and 30.-A thorn fence, 4 ft. 6 in. high. 15.-Thorn fence, 5 ft. high and 2 ft. in width, ditch on take off side 5 ft. wide and a rail in front 2 ft. high. 16.-The "Water Jump," 15 ft. in width.

Sandown is "a galloping course," as the term goes, but it requires jumping, especially the three fences near together at the foot of the hill. If a horse loses his balance and gets at all abroad at the first or second of these, the third is very likely to upset him, as it is stiff and he cannot go through.

Kempton, Hurst, Newbury, Gatwick, and Lingfield have just prior to the time of writing been occupying the attention of inspectors of courses under the National Hunt Committee.

Most of the Irish courses differ from the English, except Leopardstown, which was an exceedingly stiff and severe edition of Sandown. It used to be dangerously big, in fact; horses were killed and men badly hurt; but it has been modified. At Punchestown, Fairyhouse, and Navan the country is to a great extent natural. There are banks, some of which horses fly, others they double Walls, open brooks, and doubles are included. One of the best water jumps is at Auteuil, for a river crosses the course, and if a horse fails to clear it he goes right in; whereas in England water jumps are sloped away to nothing, so that not to get over often means merely a little splash in a few inches of mud. on. 1 ALFRED E. T. WATSON. (Rapier.) STUD BOOKS. - Horses. The Thoroughbred. The originator of stud books, in connection with the breeding of the racehorse, is understood to have been Mr. Joseph Butler, of Killamarsh, Derbyshire, who in the "seventies" of the eighteenth century had charge of the studs of Lord Fitzwilliam and Lord Lowther. He, in fact, prepared the material for a stud book prior to the publication of a volume in 1791, entitled An Introduction to a General Stud Book, and the latter was followed by the English Stud Book, in the preface to which it was stated that the "substance was collected solely for the private amusement of the editor." The editor was an ancestor of the Messrs.

Weatherby, the officials of the English Jockey Club, and for very many years comckey Club pilers of the present Racing Calendar.

Coming to the last century, a volume appeared in 1803, containing pedigrees from as far back as the reign of Charles the Second.

It was, however, in 1808 that the first volume of the present General Stud Book saw the light, embracing pedigrees, as set forth on the title page, "From the earliest accounts to 1807." This volume has run through several editions, the fifth having been published in 1891. This, then, is the progenitor of the many stud books, devoted to the genealogy of the thoroughbred, which are circulated in other countries. It is compiled and issued every four years by the Messrs. Weatherby, and has reached twenty-two volumes, not to mention annual supplements. A desire has been expressed that the interval between publication should be two years.

On the Continent, France has for many years had a stud book; while in Germany are the Allgemeines Oesterreichisches und Ungarisches Gestübuch (Vienna), and the Norddeutsches Gestut-Buchs (Berlin). In Berlin also we have Freutzel's Family Tables of English Thoroughbred Stock. There is further a stud book periodically published in St. Petersburg; and in Rome the Libro Genealogico Cavalli di Puro Sanque Importati o Nati in Italia, and we may add the Stud Book Belge, in Brussels. In the United States, the first volume of the American Stud Book was published in 1873, and South America is distinguished for its Stud Book Argentino, the official publication of the Jockey Club in Buenos Ayres; there is also the Stud Book de la Republica O, de Uruguay, belonging to the Jockey Club of Monte Video. Turning to Australia, as far back as 1859, a single volume was published by a Mr. W. Levy in Melbourne. This was followed by the late Mr. W. C. Yuille's Victorian Stud Book, which was eventually merged into the Australian Stud Book, edited by his son, Mr. A. Yuille. The volume, of over 600 pages, is embellished with a large collection of tabulated pedigrees.

This stud book is now compiled and published under the authority and superintendence of the leading racing clubs of the Australian Continent. Over thirty years ago there was a stud book published in Sydney, first edited by Mr. Fowler Boyd Price, and then jointly by Messrs. E. K. Cox and J. A.

Scarr, both prominent New South Wales racing men. The little island colony of Tasmania is, as yet, content with a manuscript stud book; but New Zealand has a record, the present editor of which is Mr. G. Elliot, of Waganui, Canterbury.

There are also stud books, officially published and otherwise, in connection with hunters, hackneys, clevelands, polo ponies, the Yorkshire coach horse, &c.

Dogs. The Kennel Club Stud Book is the official record of the institution of that name, having its headquarters at 27 Old Burlington Street, London. The book covers every known species of the canine race, sporting and otherwise, and was first issued in 1874, the secretary and then editor being Mr. F. C. S. Pearce, who was succeeded by Mr. W. W. Aspinall, the present official being Mr. E. W. Jaquet. Originally circulated every four years, the Kennel Club Stud Book is now an annual publication. The American Kennel Club Stud Book is a New York publication, and has reached twenty-two volumes. The compiler is the secretary to the A.K.C. On the Continent there are the Svenska Kennel Klubbens Stambok, published at Stockholm, and the Finska Kennel Klubbens Kalendarsch Stambok, published at Helsingfors. The Italian Stud Book, first published at Milan, in 1897, under the auspices of a club, is confined to pointers and English black and tan and Gordon setters. Of stud books devoted to special classes of dogs the Greyhound Stud Book, the official publication of the English National Coursing Club, was started in 1882, with the late Mr. David Brown as its compiler. He died in 1892, and was succeeded by Mr. W. F. Lamonby, secretary to the National Coursing Club. It has now reached twenty-nine volumes. Prior to this official publication, there should not be omitted a stud book printed for several years by Mr.

Goodlake (the very first stud book for greyhounds), in the early part of the last century. It was followed by one by Mr. Thomas Thacker, whose annual, Courser's Remembrancer, of more than half a century ago, still finds a place in many a present day courser's library. To the foregoing may be added Captain Ellis's erudite Bothal Stud Book, printed for private circulation. There is also a Greyhound Stud Book published yearly under the auspices of the American Coursing Board, the editor of which is Mr. L. F. Bartels, Denver, Colorado. The third and last volume has an especial feature, namely, that the pedigree of every greyhound therein is displayed in tabulated form. Other stud books embrace foxhounds, harriers, and beagles, fox-terriers, and breeds not connected in any way with sport. W. F. LAMONBY. [STUD BOOKS SWAN, WILD. There are only about eight species of the genus cygnus known to naturalists throughout the world. They may be enumerated as follows: The Mute, Whooper (sometimes spelt Hooper), Polish, and Bewick's swans; the Trumpeter and the Common American swan; the Black swan of Australia (Chenopsis atrata); and the Black-necked swan of South America (Cygnus nigricollis). Of these the first four are claimed as British; that is, as visitors occurring in the wild state, usually in the winter months only. It is not altogether improbable that the great North American bird, the Trumpeter swan, and also the lesser trans- Atlantic swan, Cygnus columbianus americanus, have been similarly obtained; although in their case this would seem to be more open to doubt by reason of the fact that both species are kept in this country on waters where they are allowed more or less liberty. From such situations the cygnets are, of course, liable to escape, unless sufficiently early measures are taken to prevent them taking to flight. Neither is it unlikely that in severe winters, when the freshwater home has become untenable, they, like the semi-domesticated Mute swan, might occasionally be found on the tidal waters, in our estuaries, and even upon the open coast. or The Mute Swan (Cygnus olor or C. mansuetus).—As the semi-domesticated swan of our rivers and inland waters this bird is familiar to most people, and it is unnecessary to touch on its habits and life history. It may, however, be as well to point out here that the Mute swan in a perfectly wild state is occasionally to be found on our coasts; indeed, the wonder would seem to be that wild Mute swans are not oftener found in British waters, seeing that they breed at large in the South of Sweden, in Denmark, and North Germany, much nearer, in fact, to our shores than any other wild swan. On being frozen out of the lakes and ponds, some of the semidomesticated Mute swans do occasionally find their way to strange waters, where they are shot; but it is not quite fair to the wildfowler to assume that all the Mute swans he kills are birds that have escaped from protection.

The Mute swan has been introduced in the Outer Hebrides, and when visiting these islands, the writer was informed by the gamekeeper on Benbecula that the swans were wild and bred on one of the lochs, but that they were sometimes molested by the boys, who took the eggs.

The Polish Swan (Cygnus immutabilis). -Naturalists are not agreed that this is a true species, specifically distinct from C. olor.

Yarrell, however, described and figured this SWAN] bird, and produced evidence which certainly carries the conviction that there are one or two clearly defined points of distinction.

One of the most important is that the cygnets are white from the egg; whereas the young of the Mute swan are greyish-brown in colour. To compare the two species further, it may be pointed out that in the Polish swan the knob on the bill is not so large, whilst the feet and legs are ash or slate-grey instead of black. A strong argument, too, in favour of separation is the fact that Polish swans are occasionally shot out of strings flying southward along the line of our East killed at Wramplingham in March, some four or five years later, weighed 15 lbs.; measured, in length, 4 feet 8 inches, and, from tip to tip of fully extended wings, 7 feet.

The Whooper, Whistling Swan, Elk (Cygnus musicus or C. ferus).This bird is not quite so large as the Mute swan, from which it may be usually distinguished, even at some considerable distance, by its different pose and upright carriage of the head and neck (see illustration). A closer examination of the two species reveals the fact that the Whooper has no knob at the WILD SWANS.

Coast, from Scotland to the mouth of the Thames. Yarrell lays stress on the circumstance of these herds being seen without any observable difference in the specimens obtained, all being distinct from the Mute swan, whilst the cygnets, so far as observed, were pure white, like the parent birds. The Polish swan is smaller than the Mute swan, its length being 4 feet 9 inches. The bill is reddish-orange, the nail, nostrils, and face black.

It is recorded in the Zoologist of February, 1881, that a fine adult pair of Polish swans were shot on Wroxham Broad; both had perfect wings, and so presumably were wild birds, the male weighing 22 lbs., and the female 19 lbs., the former measuring 5 feet 2 inches, and the latter 5 feet in length.

These weights and measurements accord pretty nearly with those given for the Mute swan. An immature female Polish swan From a drawing by Archibald Thorburn. base of the bill, this basal portion being flat and of a deep yellow colour, whilst the tip of the bill is black. The Whooper is reported to have bred in some of the Scottish islands towards the close of the eighteenth century. It now nests in Iceland, within the Arctic circle in Scandinavia, and in East Russia. A winter visitor to Great Britain, it appears abundantly only when the weather is severe in Northern Europe. In mild winters the Whooper is seldom seen on our shores. It is most numerous in Scotland, but in Ireland its smaller congener, the Bewick's swan, is the more plentiful of the two. The Whooper is our true wild swan, deriving its name from its loud call-note. In adult plumage the Whooper is pure white, with legs and feet dull black. The young birds in first plumage are pale brownishgrey, and the basal portion of the bill does not at first assume the deep yellow or orange colour of the old birds, but instead is of a pale yellow or flesh-colour, whilst the feet and legs are dark brownish-black. The cygnets attain adult plumage by the second winter. The Whooper is the same length as the Mute swan, both measuring about 5 feet, but in consequence of a somewhat slighter form or more slender build, it does not attain to the weight of the more familiar species. The average weight of the adult 1, Mute Swan. 3, Bewick's Swan. 2, Polish. Swan HEADS OF SWANS. 4, Whooper. male Whooper in good condition is about 21 lbs., and an adult female weighs two or three pounds less.

Bewick's Swan (Cygnus bewicki). This bird is the smallest of the British swans, and it, too, is a winter visitor. In severe seasons it is frequently found on our East Coast, is tolerably plentiful in favourable situations on the West Coast of Scotland, including the warm seas of the Outer Hebrides, and also the Orkneys and Shetlands, but is usually much more abundant in Ireland than elsewhere in our islands. To the latter place Bewick's swan resorts in far greater numbers than the Whooper, for it has been found there in frosty weather in herds of some hundreds. Bewick's swan has, from all accounts, a more westerly breeding range than the Whooper; nesting above the limits of forest growth, on the tundras of Northwest Russia and Siberia, and on some of the islands in the Arctic Ocean. Bewick's swan may readily be distinguished from the Whooper by size and weight alone. Adult specimens measure from 46 inches to 50 inches in length, and weigh from 9 lbs. to 13 lbs., this being fully one foot less in length than, and only about half the weight of, the Whooper. In addition to this the [SWAN coloration of the bill serves as a means of identification; the deep yellow of the basal portion of the smaller bird does not extend below the nostrils, as it does in the larger swan; the rest of the bill is black, and the legs and feet are dull black. The plumage of the adult Bewick's swan is pure white, and the young in first plumage resemble those of the Whooper, the basal portion of their bills being also flesh-coloured.

The Trumpeter Swan (Cygnus buccinator). This North American swan, sometimes called the Hunter's swan, has been included in the list of British birds on the strength of a statement that four were killed out of a small herd of five which appeared at Aldeburgh, Suffolk, towards the end of October, 1866. One of these, now in the Ipswich Museum, has been identified by Professor Newton as of this species.

Still, as the Trumpeter swan has been introduced and has reared its young in the Zoological Gardens, Regent's Park, and elsewhere in this country, it is just possible that these examples may have escaped from confinement. An American authority, Dr. Elliott Coues, remarks of this swan that it chiefly inhabits North America, from the Mississippi valley westward, from Texas to the fur countries, Great Lakes, Hudson's Bay, and Canada. It occurs casually on the Atlantic coast, breeds from Iowa and Dakota northward, and winters southward to the Gulf. The bill and feet are entirely black.

Adults measure 5 feet or more in length, and the enormous extent of their wings reaches to about 8 feet. The plumage is white, and some birds have a wash of rusty-brown on the head. The cygnets are smaller, with feet and legs not so dark, and plumage greyish, with upper neck and head rustybrown.

Common American Swan or Whistling Swan (Cygnus columbianus or americanus). - Another North American swan, which is said to have occurred a few times in Scotland. There is, of course, nothing inherently strange or improbable in the supposition that swans breeding in Arctic America may reach this country. A slight divergence eastward from their usual line of flight, such as might be caused by wind or fog, when on their southward migration, would, in the case of birds of such powerful flight, soon see them well on their way hither. C. columbianus is rather smaller than his congener, the Trumpeter swan, being under 5 feet in length, and with a wing stretch of from 6 to 7 feet. Coues says that this is the species usually found along the Atlantic coast, and it is more numerous on either coast than in the interior of the United States. It is, however, somewhat rare in New England and eastwards, and breeds only in the high north.

SWAN] There is in this swan a yellow patch in front of the eye, but this is usually small and is not present in every specimen. The plumage of adults is white, and that of the young ashen-grey, with a reddish-brown tinge on the upper neck and head; the young have the bill in part flesh-coloured and the feet of a yellowish flesh colour.

With the Black swan of Australia most people in this country are now tolerably familiar; but as neither it nor the Blacknecked swan of South America are likely to travel to Great Britain of their own accord, they need not be mentioned further here.

Swan-Shooting. All ardent wildfowlers are filled with the desire to shoot a wild swan sooner or later during their career; although, be it said, for the majority this longing never receives consummation. There is usually great excitement attendant upon the shooting of one's first wild swan, and once this is accomplished the true sportsman is generally content to leave the pursuit of these birds to others, whenever Brent geese, duck, wigeon, teal, or any other better and more sporting fowl are about. Yet there is something very striking about the appearance of a herd of wild swans upon the waters, and certainly a company of Whoopers swinging along through the air in string or wedge-like formation is one of the grandest visions ever presented to the wildfowler. Then, too, the music of their cries is among the most inspiriting of sounds. In their northern haunts wild swans are not so familiar with the sound of the fowling-piece or the sight of the gunner, and consequently on first appearing on our coasts they are somewhat careless in the matter of sentry duty, and are usually more or less easy to approach. The novice in swanshooting should then with all speed make the most of his opportunities. At such times, by the exercise of a little judgment, and given a fair amount of good luck, he will be able to secure a swan or two before constant harassing by other gunners has rendered the birds perfectly inaccessible. When the weather is exceptionally severe in Scandinavian waters and along the shores of the Baltic, the wild swans are much more abundant around our coasts, and it is then that the best of the sport with them is obtainable.

The swan-shooter has two or three courses open to him, in accordance with the movements of the birds and their environment. He may elect to set up to them with the gunning-punt, when a well-directed charge of shot is certain to do some execution at fair range. Or, if the water is too rough to venture out in a punt, he may sail up to his quarry in some handy craft of light draught, with punt-gun fixed up with swivel or rope-breeching in the bow. If in this case the punt-gun is not available, a heavy shoulder four-bore or double eight-bore will form a good substitute; the former throwing, perhaps, a quarter of a pound of AA or SSSG shot at a single discharge, and the latter 5 oz. or so of smaller sizes of shot from the two barrels. If such means are not available, the gunner may have to make use of a sunken tub or a pit dug in the saltings, where by patiently lying in wait he may now and again obtain a shot at passing swans.

And lastly, where the situation will permit, WHOOPER.

TAME SWAN. he may attempt to stalk them along the shore of some loch or down the creek on the saltings, or the attempt may be made to secure a shot by driving.

When following swans, or, indeed, any wildfowl, amidst snow and ice it is advisable to put on a white cap and overall. That prince of wildfowlers, Colonel Hawker, taught us all these and many another dodge for getting at wary fowl.

Whilst going after swans in the gunningpunt, it sometimes answers to put two or three pieces of ice upon the fore-deck of the punt; this, however, requires careful manipulation, or the trim of the boat will be seriously disturbed. Still, something of the sort is more of a necessity in the case of Whoopers and their congeners than any other fowl, for, by reason of their length of neck and height from the water, swans have an extended range of vision, and thus are able to detect the movements inside a punt at some considerable distance. Over-anxiety has spoilt many good opportunities in swan shooting. Thus, when approaching swans in the water, the gunner should not be in too great a hurry to take a shot, for these heavybodied birds, unlike teal and some other ducks, cannot spring high into the air at one bound, but require both time and room to get under way. Thus there is ample time to tip the punt-gun and take a cool shot whenever they open their wings. It should, however, be remembered that swans rising from the ground are much quicker in getting well on the wing. In case the punt-gun cannot be tipped, or the gunner doubts his ability to make the most of a flying shot, it is as well to remind him that the gun should be set high, and that the heads and necks of sitting swans should be his target; moreover, for this kind of shooting the mistake should not be made of using shot too large in size -BB will usually be quite large enough.

In shooting at flying swans with the shoulder gun the novice is liable to fall into error in two ways: first as regards their rate of speed, and next in estimating the distance. The flight of a swan is very deceptive; the idea of speed is scarcely to be associated with the slow and measured beat of his huge wings, and yet the bird may actually be travelling faster than wild ducks or sharp-flying Brent geese. Inexperienced gunners often innocently open fire upon swans at from one to two hundred yards' distance under the impression that they are well within gunshot. This, however, serves but to wound and to frighten birds, and care should be taken to estimate distances: if on land, by the bird's surroundings, or, if on water, by its eye, the marking on its bill, and the general distinctness with which it may be seen.

The head or the hollow underneath the wing are the most assailable targets at which to aim when shooting at a swan flying past.

Colonel Hawker speaks of a dodge for making a going-away swan "haul his wind" and so come across the gunner, and this is quite possible, as the following incident will show. In January, 1895, I was wildfowling off the Essex coast. It was in the early days of the memorable frost of that year, and on coming aboard the yacht from morning flight, preparatory to going afloat for the day and whilst swabbing the mud off my wading boots in the dinghey alongside, my man called attention to two swans flying up against the steady north-east breeze then blowing. As it was evident that the line of flight they were pursuing would bring them across the bow of the yacht not more than eighty yards away, I called to my man to hand me the double 8-bore he had just placed in the cabin, with some big shot cartridges. This he quickly did, and I fired two shots at the leading bird, a huge fellow, whereat he gave a heavy lurch and appeared to be coming down, but recovering, he hauled round, and in two seconds both were close alongside the boat, offering the best possible opportunity for a double shot, but the gun was not loaded, and by the time more cartridges were got [SWAN out of the cabin the birds were 150 yards away, and the error was not retrieved, at all events just then.

Guns and Ammunition. Although not at all times absolutely essential, success in swan-shooting is usually best assured by the employment of heavy guns of wide bore. Swans have now and again been killed with ordinary game guns and No. 4 shot, by shooting at the head and neck or underneath the wing, but in a general way the range is so great as to necessitate the use of more powerful guns and weightier shot. In a punt gun of, say, 14-inch or 13-inch bore, suitable charges of Curtis and Harvey's Colonel Hawker's punt-gun powder, and of BB shot of 58, or A shot of 50 pellets to the ounce, will do good execution at the heads and necks of sitting swans at 80 yards. But for flying shots at longer range, mould shot, SSSG of 17 pellets to the ounce, will be required; and with this size swans may be killed at 100 yards or over. For heavy shoulder guns of 4- or 8-bore, AA of 40, or AAA of 32 pellets to the ounce, may be used at fair ranges, whilst the mould shot already mentioned can be requisitioned for the longer shots.

Bibliography.-Any one desirous of gaining further information relative to the habits and life history of the Swans will doubtless find what he requires in one or other of the following works: A History of British Birds, by Henry Seebohm (Porter); Yarrell's British Birds, 4th edition, the Ist and 2nd vols. of which were revised by Professor Alfred Newton, and the 3rd and 4th by Mr. Howard Saunders; A Manual of British Birds, by Howard Saunders; A Handbook of British Birds, by J. E. Harting; A Dictionary of Birds, by Professor Newton. Then as to the shooting of wild swans, full directions for pursuing the sport in Great Britain are to be found in one or other of the following books: Instructions to young Sportsmen, by Colonel Hawker (Messrs. Longman). This, the standard work fifty or more years ago, ran through several editions; although of course the section treating of guns is obsolete, many of the instructions with respect to punts, sizes of shot, and the general methods of procedure when wildfowling, are as applicable now as on the day they were written. The Wildfowler, by H. C.

Folkard (Longmans), a delightful book, holds first place as a history of the sport. The Fowler in Ireland, as also the section on Wildfowling in Letters to young Shooters, by Sir Ralph Payne- Gallwey, Bart., are extremely useful. The Art of Wildfowling, by Mr. Abel Chapman, a sound work; and Practical Wildfowling, by the present writer (L. Upcott Gill).

HENRY SHARP.

SWIMMING. - The exercise of swimming needs a regular action of all the muscles, for progress is brought about by the alternate movements of flexion and extension of the body and limbs. These movements begin in the legs, spread to the LIBRARY, BRIXTON, S.W.

SWIMMING] thighs, the vertebral column, and the arms, promoting equalised and harmonious action between the muscles of both sides of the body, and consequently regular and good development and straightness of figure.

A common idea prevails that swimming can be easily acquired. This in the abstract is true, but it is one thing to be able to keep afloat and propel oneself through the water, and quite another thing to do so correctly, with speed, and the least possible waste of power. Much depends on the teacher, for when once a bad style is contracted, it is with the utmost difficulty that improvement can be made.

We shall now proceed to give a few practical and easily understood hints upon the learning of the various methods of swimming most in use. The first of these, and the most readily acquired, is :- The Breast Stroke. - Rapid progress is best secured by moving the limbs more slowly in flexion than in extension. There- BREAST STROKE. FIRST POSITION. fore, the general tendency of novices to bend the back, to make short sharp plunges with hands and feet and never to straighten the limbs, are faults which must be avoided by every one who wishes to become a graceful and good swimmer. It should never be forgotten that every movement must be carefully executed, the circular sweep of the arms and legs properly defined, and all haste avoided. Upon the legs falls the principal work of propulsion, and the greatest attention should be paid to this part of the stroke, so that the learner may be able to use his legs to the best advantage. a a The best method of practising the leg stroke is to take hold of some support, such as the rail or rope running round the bath, the edge of a diving-raft, or stern of boat, with both hands and bring the body into a horizontal position on the surface of the water, the legs extended close together and the feet turned slightly outwards, the heels touching.

Then the legs should be opened and widened out at the knees, thereby drawing the feet well up towards the body, heels kept touching all the time. This movement should be freely practised before the next is entered upon, and on no account must the knees be drawn under the body. They are simply to be widened out sideways. As soon as the beginner fully understands this movement, he should, when the feet are drawn up, kick them wide out to each side and then BREAST STROKE. SECOND POSITION. close the straightened legs back to their original horizontal position, with a strong action. These are the essential movements of the legs in breast swimming, and, before the combined movements are practised, the beginner should be able to accomplish them with regularity and precision.

Into these leg-actions he will almost imperceptibly glide, and feel himself being propelled through the water as the feet are drawn up, then the legs are swiftly extended and brought back together, with regular, rhythmical movement.

Expert breast-stroke swimmers, as they move the legs backwards, make a rounded sweep with the lower part of the leg and foot, causing a kind of flip or fin action, thereby adding to pace, by forming a series of irregular ellipses; as this comes with BREAST STROKE. THIRD POSITION. practice, the learner must first acquire the complete stroke.

Now for the arm movements. The arms should be flexed, with the elbows about four to six inches from the sides of the body; the hands should be brought up in front of the chin, thumbs touching and palms facing downwards. The hands should be near the surface and the body inclined forward, the head thrown slightly back. On no account must the hand be cramped, though the fingers should be fully extended and touching each other. In making the stroke, the arms should be shot out to their fullest extent, in line with the body; the hands then slightly turned outwards, the arms brought round by a steady pull until they are in line with the shoulder. The recovery is made by flexing the arms and bringing the elbows near the sides of the body, the hands coming almost naturally into position again in front of the chin.

The combination of the arm and leg movements should next be practised. When first attempting the combined movements, it is best to be held up by someone. At starting, incline the body to a horizontal position, with the back slightly hollowed, not arched, with arms and legs fully extended. Then the arms should be brought backwards until in line with the shoulder; next, the elbows are flexed and the hands brought to the front in line with the chin.

As the hands are brought to the front, the legs are drawn up and then quickly kicked out, swirled round and brought together again, as if in one motion, while at the same time the arms are shot forward. When the arms are fully extended, the hands should be about three inches, and the legs, when closed, about eight inches below the surface. On no account must there be haste in any part of the stroke, for the more careful his action at the outset, the quicker the beginner will learn. As soon as a few strokes can be accomplished, he should take up his position on one side of the bath at the shallow end, push off, and try to reach the other side. a The first difficulty will be that of breathing, but with little practice that will soon be overcome. The inspiration must be made while the arms are being swept back from the extended position to the one in line with the shoulders; the expiration during the other portions of the stroke. Breathing should take place regularly every stroke, and not be suspended, as it very often is by beginners, during several.

When racing, breast-stroke, both hands must touch the end of the bath simultaneously at the turn. It is also well to remember that in no races are competitors disqualified by starting on the bottom of the bath.

Floating. With the acquirement of the breast-stroke will come the desire to learn the higher branches of the art, and for this purpose it is, in my opinion, desirable to [SWIMMING master first the principles which govern floating, as thereby the beginner will soon understand how buoyant the human body is, how easily it can be made to remain upon the surface, and the position in which it should be placed to minimise the resistance FLOATING. offered it by water when travelling. To be able to float or rest when in the water is a valuable accomplishment, and is often of real use and service. The ability to float often comes to you when least expected, or, rather, you suddenly find your proper balance after vainly trying to discover it for weeks. There are some people who can float but not swim; while there are thousands of swimmers who cannot float at all. Their ignorance is largely due to lack of patience. They try once or twice, find it difficult to learn, and give up the attempt. In brief, floating is the balancing of the body on the surface of the water, and what the swimmer has first to find out is the exact position in which his arms and legs have to be placed in order to accomplish it.

The learner should first stand erect in the bath with legs close together and then lean backwards, at the same time extending the arims beyond the head. After closing his mouth and taking a deep breath, a slight push from the bottom should be made, sufficient to bring the body to the surface in a horizontal position.

Then, gently inclining his head back, holding his breath, and without troubling if his face go under water, he should first note which part of the body sinks first. If the legs sink, then either the arms are not fully extended, the head not sunk low enough, or the chest not properly inflated. The slightest alteration in the position of the limbs may suffice to keep the body on top. A good way of practising is to place the feet under the rail of the bath and then lie flat on the back with arms extended beyond the head, the whole body being kept perfectly straight, but not rigid. In getting into position, every movement should be made slowly, and, if the body descend a little, there should be no alteration in its position, as in any case there is slight sinking at every expiration, followed by a corresponding rise at SWIMMING] each inspiration. There are two things which must be carefully guarded against, (a) the almost uncontrollable desire to lift the head, and (b) the contraction of the muscles before the whole body is rigid.

Sometimes "sculling" is taught first, as this is the chief of floating and other surface feats. The body is kept straight, as previously described, but the arms, instead of being extended beyond the head, are placed at the side of the body, the hands palm downwards. By slight semicircular, wavelike motions of the hands from right to left, the recovery being made as if feathering an oar, the body is kept on the surface and motion also imparted to it. If a swimmer acquire this he can always keep his body in position for floating practice. It is much easier to learn to float in salt water than in fresh, owing to the greater density of the water.

Speed Strokes. - When he has acquired a knowledge of breast-swimming and floating, the beginner can then turn his attention to the speed strokes. With that familiarly known as the side stroke I do not intend to deal. It is practically out of date now, having been supplanted by the over-arm and "Trudgen" strokes. ،، The over-arm" movement, which is a development of the old side stroke, is now used by almost every racing swimmer. The leg-kick is entirely different from that used in the breast stroke, and is more like that of a runner. The over-arm, the lower-arm, and leg strokes combine in so uniform a manner that the body moves forward with a regular swing. The swimmer lies on his side, the majority preferring to turn on the right, with the under or right arm fully extended beyond the head. He then pulls the under arm down through the water towards the hips, at the same time keeping the hand flat and the fingers closed. As soon as the stroke is finished, the arm is flexed and the hand shot forward, until it again arrives in front of the head, ready THE OVER-ARM STROKE. for the next stroke. When the lower arm has nearly completed the downward stroke, the upper arm, slightly flexed so as to work clear of the chest, should be a little in front of the face, with the fingers closed together VOL. IV and hand pointing downwards. The hand is then swept through the water close to the body until opposite the waist, when it is brought smartly out and carried rapidly through the air to the front of the face, ready for the succeeding stroke.

The legs commence to work as soon as the upper arm is opposite the shoulder.

They are then opened widely and should be ready for the kick when the upper hand leaves the water, the kick being completed before the hand mentioned is ready for the next stroke. In this kick, the left leg is placed forward, knee slightly bent, while the right leg is carried far back and bent double.

Then the left leg is smartly straightened and the right brought back to it with a determined swish as of a whip. In this stroke, as the body is on the side, the hands are worked in nearly a vertical plane, above and beneath the trunk, and not on either side of it, as in the breast stroke. With regard to the legs, however, the movement is different, for these are worked in the horizontal plane. The extremities and the body are consequently employed in the best possible manner for developing their power, reducing friction in the forward motion and preventing dead points.

In the over-arm stroke, three limbs move together in the same direction and keep time; the fourth always moves in the opposite direction to the other three. The limbs which move together are the legs and overarm; as the latter is advanced, the legs are drawn up and all three are forced backward with energy and rapidity, communicating to the body a forward impulse, and the body, being on the side, advances as on a keel to a considerable distance; the underartn, which moves by itself, acts as a cutwater, assists in floating the body, and keeps up the momentum as the other limbs are getting into position for the next stroke, thus securing in a great measure continuity of movement. In order to get the greatest possible power from the kick, the legs should be made to diverge widely, and the greatest force should be imparted to them when pushed outwards and away from the trunk, the force being continued as the legs are converged upon each other, until the whole body is in a straight line. Inhalation takes place during the forward movement of the over-arm.

The "Trudgen" stroke is so called because it was made popular in this country in the "seventies" by a swimmer of that name who had learned it while among the natives of South America. Though a fatiguing stroke, and for that reason unsuitable for general use, it is of eminent service in water polo," and, for a short distance, is perhaps one of the Q a speediest known. The leg kick is essentially the same as in the over-arm stroke, the body being on the side when it is taken, but instead of the under-arm being moved in the ordinary way, it is brought out of the water SWIMMING ON THE BACK. beyond the head and swept round to the side, thus causing the body to turn on the breast. Then the upper hand is pulled through the water in similar manner and the leg kick taken, the body turning once more on the side. Trudgen swam on the chest always, with both arms out of the water, and this style is used in polo when dribbling the ball, but the double over-arm is the less exhausting of the two and just as speedy.

Swimming on the back is not much cultivated, but this method is of great assistance in the saving of life from drowning. The movements are similar to those of the breast stroke, the leg kick being identically the same. The arms are extended beyond the head, and then, with the palms turned outward, swept round and downwards to the body, and carried back out of the water to position.

In competitions on the back, competitors must place both hands on the end of the bath before pushing off at the turn.

When bringing a drowning person to shore, the hands are of course engaged, and the back-swimming has to be accomplished with the legs. These are sunk at a far greater angle to the surface, so as to give freedom of action, and are moved from the knees downward in semicircular sweeps, which not only propel the swimmer at a fairly rapid rate, but also tend, through the consequent swirl of water, to keep up the body of the person being towed. When practising this stroke, the arms should be folded across the chest.

Under-water swimming competitions are not encouraged by any of the governing bodies, several fatal accidents having resulted therefrom. The A.S.A. prohibit any such competitions exceeding 60 seconds, and under no circumstances are competitions [SWIMMING allowed in which the competitor is lost to view of the officials. The breast stroke is ordinarily used, the head being depressed and the arms kept downwards. As soon as the swimmer is becoming exhausted, a warning pain, often described by swimmers as a headache at the back of the neck," comes over the medulla oblongata. Hc should immediately rise to the surface, or insensibility, and possibly death, will 66 ensue.

Fancy Strokes. With ability to float is also acquired a sense of absolute control over the water, and the swimmer soon learns how easily the body can be kept on the surface. Then comes the desire to accomplish some of the feats performed by experts. One of the simplest is that of treading water, which is useful when playing polo in deep water. The arms are extended at right angles, with palms downwards, and the downward action of the legs in the breast-stroke is used to keep the body off the surface, the hands being pressed down at each kick. When it is desired to move forwards, the legs are moved alternately, being thrust outward from the knees to the front and then drawn backwards, the sole of the foot striking the water; but the action is exactly the reverse when one is desirous of going backwards, the legs then being drawn alternately to the rear. When one is going forward, the hands are placed on the hips, but when returning they are folded across the chest. The "Pendulum" is a balancing feat which can easily be accomplished by one able to float. The SWIMMING UNDER WATER. body is first placed in a floating position, with the arms stretched out beyond the head, which is thrown well back. A good breath is taken, the head then inclined slowly forward, and the hands drawn very gradually and carefully towards the back of the head.

As this action goes on, the feet slowly sink until the body is perpendicular, with the face slightly out of the water. Then the SWIMMING] head is sunk forward and the arms slowly extended, this bringing the legs to the surface in the backward direction, and causing the body to float face downwards.

Similar actions in the reverse direction will cause the body to assume the perpendicular position, and ultimately float face upwards again, the body moving backwards and forwards like a pendulum, whence the designation of the feat. 66 The Propeller" and "Torpedo" feats are really variations of backswimming-the one above, the other below the surface. For the propeller, the swimmer must first of all "scull," and then, when there is a little way on, swing the arms under the surface round to the head, beyond which they must be fully extended.

The hands should then be moved from the wrists and fore-arms in wave-like sweeps, the palms being turned outwards, and the body can then be made to travel at a good pace. The body can be turned round by the slowing of the movement of one hand, the body turning to that side. The "Torpedo" feat is similar, except that the feet are raised above the surface, thus allowing the other portion of the body to sink slightly below the surface, while at the end of each stroke the palms are pushed slightly upwards and kept more in line with the body to prevent the head rising.

Revolving on the surface is allied to floating, as swimming actions are not required. The ordinary horizontal position is first assumed, the thumbs being locked. Then the lungs are fully inflated, the face is turned gradually to the right, and the muscular force of the right side slowly exerted. This will cause the body to turn over on to the face, and as soon as it does so the muscular force of the left side is so used as to cause it to revolve on to the back again. Once the body is in motion, the revolutions can be made in quick succession, but they must be performed neatly and without splashing.

Somersaulting, when properly performed, is very graceful. In the ordinary single backward somersault, the head is bent back as far as possible, and the legs drawn right up to the body, which is first of all steadied by the arms being carried out in a horizontal position and in the same straight line as the shoulders. The body is then turned on the back, the bent up legs being out of the water. A semicircular sweep of the hands towards the back brings them from palm downwards to palm upwards, turns the body completely over in a circle, the head sinking first. In the forward single somersault, the legs are doubled up and arms extended as before, but this time the chest is under the surface and the head well forward. Then a similar movement to that in the backward somersault is made with the arms, except that it is towards the front and not the back. This causes the body to rotate, the arms being the axis.

Double somersaulting is rather more difficult. One swimmer stands on the bottom of the bath with legs extended and arms out at right angles. The second swimmer, after inflating his lungs, sinks, places his head between the legs of the first, and then brings his legs up until they can clasp the POSITION FOR THE BACKWARD DIVE. first swimmer's head, and also extends his ar arms, the two swimmers being back to back.

As soon as the two are fixed, the backward somersault movement of the arms is commenced, and the men, if they know how to regulate their breathing sufficiently, can turn five or six times in this position, the head of one emerging from the surface as that of the other disappears.

Sinking to the bottom and rising again to the surface, without apparent motive power, is a feat which illustrates the difficulty experienced by an expert in staying under water, owing to the buoyancy of the body.

First placing himself in a floating position, the swimmer, after carefully inflating his lungs, lifts his head slightly, at the same time slowly dropping the hips. This causes the body to sink gradually, and then, as the head goes under the surface, a small quantity of air is expired and the body descends to the bottom. In order to rise, the legs should be straightened, the abdomen a Q2 contracted towards the chest, and the head inclined back. The body will then ascend slowly. As soon as the face appears above the surface a quick breath should be taken.

Diving is not so much practised as it deserves to be in this country, and one has to go to Sweden to see this beautiful branch of the art displayed to perfection. There, somersaulting from great heights, and swallow-like flights of a whole team are common, but it is only of late years that such graceful forms of diving have been seen in England, and then only by professional swimmers or the members of par- [SWIMMING while the head is sunk between the arms, which are kept fully extended, the thumbs touching and palms turned downwards. As soon as the water is entered, the hands should be turned towards the surface, and the diver will immediately rise.

Plunging is a standing dive from a firm take-off, the body, after entering the water, being kept motionless, face downwards. No progressive action is imparted to it other than the impetus of the dive, and the plunge terminates when the swimmer raises his head above the surface. The distance of a plunge is measured from the diving base to the farthest point reached by any portion of THE START OF A RACE. ticular clubs. More attention is now, how ever, being paid to the matter, and the general cultivation of diving, and the inclusion of it in all tests of proficiency, is only a matter of time. The common forms are the "low dive" and the "plunge." The best way to learn is to stand on the side of the bath behind a towel held in front of the legs by two other swimmers, this compelling the learner to lift his legs as he makes the dive. He should then stoop the body forward until it is nearly double, stretch out his arms until they are in front of the head, and drop the latter between them. For the first dive he can let the body gradually fall forward, and, as it goes over, throw up his legs. The helpers holding the towel can assist him by raising it so as to throw up the legs properly. After a little practice, the nervousness consequent on the initial going into the water head first will be overcome, and the learner will soon be able to make a clean dive. Then he should stand erect on the edge of the bath with the legs close together and the arms swinging. After a few short inhalations, the arms should be swung backward, then forward, and extended above the head, and a spring made from the side. As the feet leave the edge they should be thrown above the head level, and the body straightened, [Photograph by Sport and General. the plunger's body. The ability to plunge is of good service to racing men and in saving life, as the body skims along the surface with speed for the first thirty feet, and is, soon after entering the water, in the right plane for fast swimming. Moreover, it is of service when entering water which may possibly be weedy, or whose depth is unknown. For this form of diving the swimmer first stands erect on the edge, then raises himself on the forepart of the feet, swings his arms from backward to forward, and then inspires deeply until the lungs are fully inflated. The body is shot out over the water, towards which it is only slightly inclined, and as the spring is made another deep breath is taken. The body should, when entering the water, be in one straight line, the head well sunk between the arms, and the feet turned back, so that when the body rises to the surface the soles should be nearly face upwards. During the first portion of the plunge, the body should not go more than a couple of feet below the surface, and the angle of entry should be such that it rises slowly at a very slight angle and not sharply. Otherwise much of the impetus gained by the dive will be lost, owing to the resistance of the water. After the first forty feet the body, as a rule, travels slowly along the surface, but there SWIMMING] are several plungers capable of extraordinary performances. In a plunging contest, where a time limit of a minute was imposed, Major W. Taylor, of Bootle, in 1897 covered 74 feet II inches, while in 1896 at Lewisham Bath Mr. W.

Allason, of the Otter Club, traversed 80 feet 84 inches in 98 seconds.

Another method of plunging is feet first, the swimmer standing as before, first bending his knees and then leaping well out over the water. The arms are then quickly extended beyond the head, thumbs locked, and the body straightened and thrown back.

The water is entered feet first and the body travels onward, face upward. to For high diving, coolness, and keen judgment of the angle which the body should take when descending and about enter the water, are essential, and these can best be acquired by gradually increasing the height of the dive, a foot at a time. English divers commonly drop the body from a height and throw up the legs in so doing; but this is a clumsy style and very often leads to the swimmer landing on his back. The better form is to leap into midair with the body almost horizontal, and then quickly incline the head and arms, so that the body descends downwards at so neat an angle as hardly to cause any disturbance when it enters the water.

But the most graceful method of diving is that termed "swallow-dive," the body being shot out from the board, horizontally as in the style just described, but with the arms extended at right angles. It is allowed to descend in that position until within about eight feet of the water, when the arms are closed together under the body, the head smartly inclined into them and the legs thrown up.

If performed properly this is a very pretty dive. Experts dive in this fashion from heights varying from forty to sixty feet, and when a body of them do it together, it greatly resembles the action of the swallow.

Running headers and spring board diving can easily be learnt by those who can dive well from any height over six feet; but somersaulting, back-diving, cross-diving, and the various other methods of entering the water, which are such charming features of a display by experts, require a considerable amount of practice, and should not be attempted until the diver is proficient in the common styles. There are several other forms of "fancy" diving, which our space is too limited to permit a mention.

Organisation. — The management of amateur swimming in England is vested in a body known as the Amateur Swimming Association, and similar organisations exist in Scotland, Ireland, Wales, New South Wales, New Zealand, &c. The English body, which is the oldest of them all, was formed in 1869 with the ostensible object of promoting championships and legislating for the government of amateur sport. For many years its authority was not much recognised outside the southern counties; but since 1889, when England was divided into three districts, each of which has selfgoverning powers, it has become an imsuspensions are recognised by the governportant and powerful body and its ing associations of kindred sports. No TEAM DIVING. person can be a member of its Council, or an officer, unless he be a delegate from one of its three branches, i.e., Northern, Midland, or Southern, and the representation in the Council of the district bodies is based on the number of clubs affiliated to each of them, so that, unlike several of the kindred associations, it is purely elective throughout.

Its objects are (a) to promote and encourage the art of swimming and the game of water polo among both sexes; (b) to stimulate public opinion in favour of providing proper accommodation and facilities for acquiring and practising the art of swimming; (c) to promote and hold amateur championships; (d) to promote the uniformity of rules for the control and regulation of amateur swimming and water polo and the management of all competitions therein; (e) to enforce the observance of the laws and rules of the Association, and to deal with any infringement thereof.

Each district association is represented by its president, six vice-presidents, hon. secretary and treasurer, and one delegate for every ten clubs affiliated, while the committee is composed of two representatives from each association and the officers ex officio. The annual meetings are held in each of the districts in rotation, and all resolutions adopted at the said meeting are bind- HIGH DIVING. ing upon every amateur swimmer, and apply to all districts. Sentences of disqualification are binding on all clubs, and are also recognised by the Amateur Athletic Association, the National Cyclists' Union, the National Skating Association, and the Scottish, Irish, and Welsh Associations, whose suspensions are in turn similarly recognised by the Amateur Swimming Association. In the event of a swimmer desiring to appeal against a sentence by either of the District Associations, he can do so to the Committee, whose duties include the hearing of such appeals, the passing of all amateur records, the selection of teams for the International and trial Water Polo Matches, the appointment of delegates to the International Water Polo Board, and the general management of the Association.

By the laws of the Association every meeting, except those held by affiliated clubs, has to be registered and advertised as under their laws. Any amateur competing at an unregistered meeting is liable to disqualification. Racing. As previously mentioned, the responsibility of dealing with and passing records rests with the Committee of the Amateur Swimming Association, who during the last few years have had to exercise constant care in checking times, owing to the vast improvement in speed rates.

The increased facilities for bathing and the great number of competitions which are now held have to a certain extent been the cause of this, for a swimmer has now far more opportunities of displaying his ability than was formerly the case. A mile race is considered the best test of swimming, and that is always the distance agreed upon for [SWIMMING the World's Championship. All amateur records must be made in A.S.A. or university costume, and in still water. For all distances up to and inclusive of 500 yards, baths of not less than 25 yards in length can be used, but records for distances over 500 yards must be made in open water over courses not less than 220 yards in length.

A record can only be made in a scratch race or in an individual race against time duly fixed and advertised before the day, and included in the printed programme of some public gala or entertainment, upon which programme the name or names of the entrant or entrants must appear together with the name of the timekeepers. No competitor can start whose name is not printed, and no one, whether entered or not, can join in the competition after it has started.

Records made in handicaps are not recognised.

Hints to Swimmers.-1. When turning in a bath (swimming with over-arm stroke) place the hand of the lower arm flat against the side under water, and then take breath, swing the other arm round, dip the head and draw up the knees. This will turn the body.

Then place both feet against the side, shoot the arms forward and push off, the head being under water as the turn is made. 2. When bathing in open water, look out for weeds and undercurrents. In the event of getting accidentally into weeds, stop kicking and simply move the hands as if "sculling." If you swim, the weeds will entangle round legs and arms. 3. If a current or tide be too strong for you, swim diagonally across it to a spot on either bank, or on shore. 4. Do not dive deep into strange water, especially a lock pool, unless you be an expert, or some one who knows the place be present. 5. To take a straight course in open water, SWALLOW DIVE. pick out some prominent object on the bank and guide yourself by it. 6. Beware of broken bottles, tins, &c., in river beds and on a much frequented shore.

SWIMMING] et, and closely 7. When racing in the sea, you can ascertain the set of the current, and the best course to take, by throwing in a cork, or similar floating object, and closely watching its progress. The swimmer who swims straight from point to point, although perhaps speedier than others, very often loses by getting into slack water. 8. When stung by jelly fish, rub the juice of a lemon well in, or use glycerine and rose water. When seized with cramp, turn on the back and rub the limb affected and kick vigorously. At the same time call loudly for help. 9. When in a rough sea, swim through each wave, not over.

IO. Beware of barnacles, when pushing off from an old ship, the side of a pier, or sunken rocks. 11. When diving from a boat always go off the stern. When getting in a boat, lay hold of the stern close to the gunwale with one hand and catch the gunwale with the other. Kick hard and raise the body sideways until it rests on the edge of the stern, then quickly move the hand from the stern to the seat, and slide backwards into the boat. 12. Rub yourself well and take a brisk walk after every swim. When in good condition, bathe every day, and in open water for preference.

The diploma examination of the Life- Saving Society has been previously mentioned in relation to the teaching of swimming and the qualifications which should be possessed by instructors. The examination is divided into two parts, the one theoretical, the other practical. In the theoretical examination the candidate has to write an essay on the following subjects :- (a) Importance and advantages of the knowledge of the art of swimming. (b) Effect of swimming as an exercise upon the growth and development of the body. (c) A short description of the lungs and respiration; the blood and its circulation. (d) The effect of excessive exercise or over-fatigue, and the physiology of breathlessness. (e) Precautions as to loss of heat, and how to avoid cramp. (f) The best method of teaching swimming.

In the practical examination (which may be taken in one or two parts) each candidate must perform in the presence of the examiners the following evolutions, in fresh water. (a) To carry-dressed in a swimming costume, shirt, tie, collar, socks, boots, trousers, waistcoat, and jacket--a person by the second or third method of rescue a distance of at least 15 yards. (b) To undress on the surface of the water. (c) To swim continuously (i.e., without any pause or rest) for twelve minutes in the following four positions: (1) on the ARM-STAND BACKWARD FALL DIVE. breast, (2) on the back, using arms and legs, (3) on the back, the arms being folded on the chest, (4) overarm side stroke.

Three minutes allowed for each position. (d) To dive from the surface of the water to a depth of at least 5 feet and raise a weighted object. (e) To float motionless on the surface of the water for at least 30 seconds. (f) To dive from heights not exceeding 5 feet and 20 feet. (g) To plunge a distance of not less than 40 feet. (h) To swim by means of the propeller a distance of 30 feet. (i) To turn from the surface of the water two somersaults forwards and backwards. (j) To perform three voluntary movements illustrating fancy and scientific swimming. (k) To illustrate, as may be required by the examiners, the best method of teaching swimming, diving, floating, and life-saving.

A maximum of ten points is allowed for each subject and movement. Any candidate failing to obtain 50 per cent. of the maximum for each subject or movement is disqualified.

ARCHIBALD SINCLAIR.

SWIMMING AND DIVING HINTS FOR WOMEN.-Although, of course, the foregoing explanations and instructions relative to the various methods of swimming and diving are almost all of them applicable to women, there are a few points which may be specially noted with advantage concerning the would-be swimmers of the fairer sex.

First of all concerning costume. A wellknown lady swimmer, writing upon this subject, says: "A proper swimming costume for women is of almost greater importance than for men, as their physique is naturally less robust, and anything which SWIMMING ON THE BACK. tends to retard unnecessarily their progress through the water should be avoided. It is only, indeed, of comparatively recent years that the necessity for a special and suitable swimming costume, as apart from the more elaborate and often quite unsuitable bathing dress, has been recognised. Nowadays, fortunately, a tight-fitting and uncumbersome suit is not only considered permissible, but obligatory. "As regards materials. The cheapest, of course, is cotton; the most favoured by expert swimmers is stockingette; and the most expensive is silk or alpaca. The latter materials, however, cannot so easily be made to fit the figure closely unless fashioned specially for the individual. To all of these costumes may be, and are sometimes, added short skirts when bathing from the beach; although these additions are yearly becoming less popular. For our own part, and after a great deal of experience both as competitor taking part in races, and as an ordinary swimmer, we favour the stockingette costume such as is worn at the Bath Club, London.

So much for the matter of costume.

But although naturally women should learn to swim more easily than men, owing to the greater lightness of their bones and the greater buoyancy of their bodies, many are less able to stand the strain of the strenuous exertion of swimming, or immersion in water of a temperature considerably lower than that of their bodies with as little risk of harm as men. Then, in addition, medical men agree that it is even more important for [SWIMMING w women to have medical advice before starting on a course of bathing, or to learn to swim, than is the case with men. Physical overstrain is much more easily brought about in the comparatively untried muscles of women than in those of men. are No woman, unless an expert swimmer and with a knowledge of the particular tides, depths of water, &c., prevailing at the point where she elects to bathe, should go swimming alone. It is not advisable in the case of men; it is far less SO in the case of women, who generally, when in difficulties in the water, apt to lose their heads more readily than is the case with men. A great mistake made by many women when bathing is remaining too long in the water, which should be left immediately there is the slightest sense of chill, unless this can be counteracted by the exertion of a sharp swim.

It is an excellent thing when one has gained proficiency to practise swimming in an old ordinary walking dress. If this were more generally done we should not so frequently read in reports of inquests after drowning accidents that "the young lady was known to be a good swimmer, but evidently had been hampered by her clothing." Except for his boots (if he be without a heavy overcoat), the average man is not so hampered by his clothing as to make any vast difference to him on falling into the water if he is a capable swimmer.

In diving, special care should be taken that the attempt is not made into too shallow water, or where there is any considerable current or tide flowing. Nor should diving by most women be attempted from any very considerable height. The risk when diving from a great height is not small when the diver is a man and expert, and it would appear from observation to be considerably greater in the case of most women.

With regard to swimming upon the back, which has already been described, it is only necessary to say that this is a method of swimming which should undoubtedly be learned by every woman who swims.

And for this reason. It is possible to keep afloat by this means, and even to make some little progress without the use of the legs, and it is therefore obvious that this is the best of all methods in which to swim or keep oneself afloat when plunged suddenly into water in one's ordinary clothes. The most expert swimmer is terribly hampered by skirts, and the handicap so caused is largely eliminated by the best method of swimming on the back, i.e., by using the arms alone scull fashion.

CLIVE HOLLAND.

SWIMMING] LIFE SAVING AND THE RESUSCI- TATION OF THE DROWNED.–To possess the ability to rescue people from drowning is not only a thing to be proud of, but a matter that every swimmer should carefully study. For it does not necessarily follow that to be a good swimmer will make one an expert at life saving.

There are several points which ought to be especially remembered, as any infraction of these necessary rules may not only result in stultifying one's efforts to save a drowning person, but also involve oneself in very serious danger.

Upon reaching the drowning person the endeavour of the swimmer should be to TOWING A DISABLED SWIMMER WHO HAS NOT LOST CONSCIOUSNESS. avoid being clutched by the former, even at the risk of not being able to render immediate assistance. The object should be to swim up and seize him from behind with a firm grip, which will indeed in itself have the effect of inspiring confidence in the person who is to be rescued, and will often prevent fresh and futile struggling on his part. If, however, there appears still to be any danger of being clutched by the drowning person, it is essential for ultimate success that the rescuer should retain the uppermost position. If, on the other hand, the person to be saved is quiet and has regained confidence, or is completely unconscious, one of the best methods of rescue is that here illustrated, where the rescuer is seen TOWING A RESCUED SWIMMER ASHORE. swimming underneath the rescued, and towing the latter ashore by holding the head firmly beneath the ears.

In the case of women who have become quite unconscious, it is easier to tow them ashore on account of their long hair, which may be used as a sort of tow rope.

Towing by the feet is not to be recommended as long as any other method can be used, as this almost invariably tends to make the head of the drowning person sink beneath the surface of the water.

One very important thing to remember in bringing the drowning person ashore, or to a boat or pier, is that care must be taken to hold him up so as to permit free breathing, which will add to his buoyancy, and also materially assist in the work of rescue.

Practice in life saving is very necessary, as to know exactly what to do without delay or hesitation is often of vital consequence. Should the distance to the shore be considerable, or the water rough, it will be necessary for the swimmer to use extra precautions to prevent the rescued person's head from dipping beneath the surface.

Of course, sometimes the body may already have sunk when the rescuer reaches the spot, and it is then necessary to make an attempt to recover it from the bottom. The first thing to be done is to dive at the place where the body disappeared, or as near to the spot as can be ascertained. The next thing, upon finding the body, is to seize hold of it firmly and rise to the surface. If there is any doubt as to the exact spot where the person disappeared, the best thing to do is to look for air bubbles rising to the surface, and dive in and search for the body close to these.

If the accident has occurred in a river or where there is a tide running, it will be necessary to search a little higher up against the stream than where the air bubbles are observed rising to the surface.

Of course, in rough water this method of ascertaining the approximate position of a body which has disappeared is useless, as the bubbles could not be seen, and one can only trust to luck in finding it.

When the body has once been found, whether floating on the surface or diving for it, the first thing necessary to consider is the possibility of being seized should the person recover consciousness. If clutched by the wrist firmly, the only means of extricating oneself may be to turn both arms downwards and outwards with a quick movement. Usually this will be successful in making the person who has to be rescued let go, when he can be turned into a good position for being towed ashore. If one is clutched around the neck, however, it is best, while keeping uppermost, to place the left arm behind the drowning person, and with the right hand pinch his nose and cover the mouth, at the same time giving him a good push away.

This will usually result in obtaining the release, and then, swimming up behind, it will not be difficult to successfully carry the drowning person to shore. If one is gripped round the body, much greater force will probably be needed to effect the severance. Not only will it be necessary to place the right hand under the chin, but one will also need to place the right knee against the person to be rescued, and push off with great force as soon as possible after the release has been effected, then seizing and turning him in a favourable position for conveyance ashore.

There are three or four chief methods of accomplishing this which are recommended by the Life Saving Society. We will describe three. In the first of these, which must be adopted if the drowning person is struggling, the arms should be seized firmly just above the elbows, whilst the rescuer is swimming on his back, care being taken to keep them well away from the side and the chest so that free inflation of the lungs may not be interfered with.

The second method is intended for use where the drowning person's struggles are so violent that to hold the arms as we have just described is impossible. The rescuer should in this case slip his arms beneath the drowning person's arm-pits, and whilst swimming on the back sustain the upper portion of the rescued person's body on his own arms. Of course, in the two foregoing methods it is supposed that the rescuer is swimming on the back, using the legs only as a means of propulsion. The third method, which is devised with a view to the use of both legs and arms on the part of the swimmer, is as follows:- The person to be assisted to shore who is not unconscious, of course, but merely exhausted or suffering from cramp, should place his hands on the shoulders of the rescuer, keep the limbs quite straight, and lie on the rescuer's back in the water. This will allow the latter, swimming with the breast stroke, to use both legs and arms to regain the shore.

The importance of all swimmers knowing not merely how to save life, but also how to resuscitate apparently drowned persons, cannot be over-estimated. By the foundation of the Royal Humane Society rather more than a century and a quarter ago, whose medal-which might be called the Victoria Cross of swimming-has served to encourage acts of personal bravery so much, a great deal was done to organise and systematise life-saving efforts. Definite rules were soon drawn up for rendering most efficient aid to drowning persons, and a series of movements and exercises for the * [SWIMMING restoration of apparently drowned persons was afterwards evolved and perfected under the guidance of the Society. There can be little question, indeed, that instruction in the methods of rescue and resuscitation is of great importance to the general swimmer, and should be learned by all. Too great importance cannot be attached to the fact that anything save a thorough and working knowledge of the rules laid down by the Royal Humane Society is more likely to do harm than good when applied by the inexperienced. These rules are excellently expressed, and should be quite easily understood by any swimmer of average intelligence. A very excellent system of drill has been originated by Mr.

Wilson, of Glasgow. It is so simple that it may be easily taught in a few lessons on land, and soon perfectly practised in the water. It comprises the methods of rescue and release from the grip of a drowning person, and these should be taught by practical demonstration at all swimming classes and learned by all would-be swimmers. The comparative uselessness of merely reading a set of instructions for life saving and the resuscitation of drowned persons must be apparent to all, as in the hurry and excitement of the moment the mind is only too readily confused, and essential points are in consequence not seldom forgotten.

There are several misconceptions regarding what occurs to a drowning person. Very briefly it is this. When, if unable to swim, a man finds himself suddenly in deep water, and sinks, on rising to the surface he generally throws up the arms and calls for help. The immediate result of this action, of course, is to cause the swallowing of water and sinking again, and if the arms are still held above the head instead of being stretched out at right angles, and by this means affording some measure of support to the body, the victim, of course, sinks lower. As a general rule, the struggles continue for a few seconds, and then, ceasing for a time, the body again rises to the surface, and once more the struggle is renewed. The next thing which happens is usually insensibility, and then the body sinks altogether, owing to loss of breath and the filling of the stomach with the water which has been swallowed. There is a very common but erroneous belief existing that a drowning person must rise three times before finally sinking. Over and over again the incorrectness of this tradition has been demonstrated, and we fear that because of this myth on occasion the need for promptness in rescue has not been realised. A drowning person, as a matter of fact, may rise for the third time, 2 SWIMMING] or, on the other hand, may rise but once, this being very largely dependent on the amount of water swallowed whilst first and no action of the heart apparent, the patient should be placed flat on the back with a roll of clothing about six inches thick RECOVERY OF THE DROWNED.

A. Place pad under patient's stomach. going under the surface, the conditions of vitality, the amount of air remaining in the lungs, &c.

When the rescue has been effected, if the person just taken from the water is apparently drowned, not a moment should be lost in starting the work of attempting to restore respiration, and a doctor should under the shoulder blades. The next thing to be done is to release all tight garments around the neck and chest, especially corsets, and at once attempt to clear the mouth and throat of all water or other matter. To do this effectively, the patient should be turned over with the head resting on one arm, and the mouth and RECOVERY OF THE DROWNED.

B. Turn patient over on stomach, and empty mouth of water. be sent for without delay. Much, however, may be done before his arrival in the way of restoring respiration. In the event of no sign of life being detectable, nostrils should be wiped. Then the body should be once more turned on the back, with the roll of clothing in its place under the shoulder blades. The tongue should [SWIMMING then be drawn out of the mouth and fastened outside the lips with a piece of tape or strip torn from a handkerchief tied two or three seconds. These movements should then be accurately followed and repeated at the rate of about twelve or fifteen RECOVERY OF THE DROWNED.

C. Raise patient's arms above head. This causes inspiration. under the chin. String will cut, and should not therefore be used if it can possibly be avoided. The operator should then kneel behind the patient's head, leaning forward and grasping the arms beneath the elbows (Fig. C). These should then be drawn steadily upwards at full length above the level of the head. After the arms have completed movements per minute until natural respiration has been restored, when they may be discontinued and attention paid to means for bringing about a better circulation and warmth in the body. Regarding the length of time which may elapse between the endeavour to induce respiration and the attainment of it, it is RECOVERY OF THE DROWNED.

D. Lower arms to patient's side. This causes expiration. been in this position two seconds, they should be pushed back again to the body, folded on each side, and pressed firmly against the sides and front of the chest for almost impossible to give any idea. Sometimes, of course, persons have shown signs of natural respiration within a few minutes of the commencement of the movements, SWIMMING] whilst at others at least one case is on record where at the end of over an hour and a half, when to all appearances the efforts to restore the apparently drowned person were destined to be fruitless, respiration was once more set up. Circulation and warmth are best restored to the body by moderately slow and firm rubbing of the limbs upwards, instead of rapid and irregular application of friction. Warm or dry flannels, towels, &c., are very useful for the purpose, and the hands and feet, if assistance is obtainable-so that the work of inducing natural respiration need not be discontinued should always be dried as speedily as possible, whilst an effort should be made when breathing and circulation have been restored to substitute dry clothing for wet garments. If this cannot be done, it is far better to strip the patient, dry the body, and wrap it over with some cover such as coats or skirts, than to allow the wet garments to remain on for a moment longer than necessary. The friction to keep up the circulation, which is apt to lag, can be continued after the person has been dressed or covered. When possible, of course, after respiration has been satisfactorily restored, the patient should be removed to a house where such assistance to circulation as hot-water bottles, flannels, &c., can be applied. Once the patient is sufficiently recovered to swallow small quantities of milk, brandy and water, coffee, or other stimulant, one or other of these things should be administered, and in all serious cases the patient should be put to bed and encouraged to sleep.

The chief points to remember in all efforts to restore the apparently drowned are that the instructions must be followed with the greatest exactitude, and to persevere with efforts until every hope of success is undeniably gone. It is by no means easy for even a well-qualified medical man to determine when these efforts are futile.

Cases have been known where the most competent person has been quite deceived in this regard, and the perseverance of the rescuers after their efforts have been pronounced useless has been rewarded by ultimate, though very long delayed, success. It is impossible here to deal more fully with this subject. Very excellent and clear instruction cards can be obtained, on which are rules drawn up, after much thought and consideration, by the Royal Humane Society. A copy of these should be purchased by every swimmer, and carefully studied, as not infrequently a knowledge of the methods there described is absolutely necessary to complete a gallant act of life saving.

One of the greatest regrets many good swimmers in former years had was the ignorance of these methods, which on occasion prevented the restoration to life of a person who had been successfully rescued from the water itself.

CLIVE HOLLAND.

WATER POLO.-Since the recognition of this sport in 1884 by the Amateur Swimming Association, polo has become very popular, and, in addition to various national championships and league competitions, there is now established a regular series of annual international matches in which England, Scotland, Ireland, and Wales all participate. On the Continent and in New Zealand, Australia, Canada, India, the United States, &c., it is also becoming popular; the English rules are those generally adopted. The game is played with an Association football in a bath, or open deep water, the latter for preference, as the general aim of water polo is to increase the staying powers of a swimmer, and keep him in good practice in floating, treading water, speed swimming, &c. A team consists of seven players, three of whom generally play forward, one at halfback, two at full-back, and the other in goal. This arrangement is, however, sometimes varied. The distance between the goals must not be more than thirty yards, or less than nineteen, and the width of the field of play not more than twenty yards.

The goal posts, which are fixed at each end of the field of play, must be ten feet apart, and when the water is over five feet in depth, the cross bar must be placed three feet above the surface; when, however, the water is less than the depth mentioned, the cross-bar must be placed eight feet from the bottom. In baths the goal posts are provided with flat, heavy lead or iron feet, so as to rest firmly on the bottom, and the goals, which are usually of a permanent character, with goal nets attached, are drawn up by pulleys to the roof, when not in use. When in the water they are made rigid by iron stays or guy ropes attached to the end of the bath.

In open water, in cases where the water is too deep to allow of the uprights being wedged firmly in the bottom, a different plan has to be adopted. Then a floating platform about twelve feet in width and four feet in depth is often used. From the front of it project two stout pieces of battening, ten feet apart, and on them the uprights are raised to a height of three feet, with the cross bar fixed at the top, and from the two ends of the cross bar a frame-work is fixed to carry the goal net. The platform is moored securely at each end of the course, and the field of play marked out by flags on buoys, or poles lashed together along each side and end.

The game is started by the referee throwing the ball, which should measure between 261 inches and 28½ inches in circumference, into the centre of the field of play. The teams, who have been previously lined up at their respective ends, immediately swim hard to their places, the centre-forward of each team usually going straight for the ball, and, if successful in reaching it first, passing back to one of his own side. The ball can be hit or thrown by any of the players, provided they are not standing and do not use both hands, and it can also be dribbled. Fouls are given for standing when playing the ball, touching the ball with both hands, holding the rail or side during any portion of the game, ducking an opponent when he is not in possession of the ball, retaining possession of the ball when ducked, holding, pulling back, or pushing off an opponent, or turning on the [SWIMMING restarting of the game, is deducted from the actual time of play, so that a match with plenty of scoring often lasts close upon half an hour. A goal is scored by the entire ball passing beyond the goal posts and under the cr cross bar. Each side has then to line up at its respective end again and another goal cannot be scored after restarting until the ball has touched more than one player. Goal and corner throws are allowed on the same principles as Association football, and the goalkeeper is exempted from the rules relating to standing, using both hands, or jumping from the bottom when playing the ball, but he must not throw more than half distance under penalty of a foul to the opposing side, and can be treated as any other player when in possession of the ball.

The speediest swimmers and most reliable shots should be picked as forwards, while the captain, who should be good at passing, should play at half-back, the place of honour and hard work. Sturdy and cool players, with plenty of stamina, are best as backs. 6 5 A GAME IN PROGRESS. back and kicking off an opponent. The penalty for a foul is a free throw for the opposing side from the place where the offence occurred; but a goal cannot be scored from the said free throw, unless the ball has been first played by at least one other player.

For fouls which the referee considers to be wilful, he can order a man out of the water after one caution. Beyond those just detailed, the rules are very simple. [Photograph by Stort and General.

Each member of the team should have a knowledge of the "Trudgen" stroke, or be able to swim fast on the breast, as these accompaniments are of extreme value when dribbling. One must be a good swimmer and have learned the proper methods of placing the body so as to get the best possible purchase when throwing the ball in the water before a man can hope to rank as a first-class player. Constant practice is necessary, and this every captain should see that his team obtains.

The duration of the game is fourteen minutes, seven each way, but time occupied in disputes or fouls, and the time Next to shooting, practice in passing is from the scoring of the goal to the of most importance. Above all, a team SWIMMING should be a combination and not a mere collection of swimmers, each desirous of playing for his own hand. In shadowing their opponents, players should always be on the alert for possible passes, and when tackled should make quick short passes to one another. There must be no hesitation, for the man who is quick to tacked, to pass behind to his backs farthest from goal.

To the backs is relegated the duty of checking the play of the wing-forwards of the other side, who will try to swim round them, dribble, or pass just as they are being tackled. The backs must be alive to all these styles of play, as well as in touch with PASSING. see an opening and take advantage of it will prove the most successful player. One golden rule all members of a team must observe, that is never to pass direct to a covered player, for he is certain to be tackled, and their own goal may be in danger before they are aware of it. The proper place to pass is some distance from a covered player, particularly if he is known to be speedy, for then by superior swimming he can usually reach it quicker than his rival and possibly shoot a goal, or pass back, before his vis-à-vis is aware of the move. If the forwards are good swimmers, they will always keep in position, where a few swift strokes may at critical moments change the fortunes of the game and outwit opposing backs. Quick turning of the body and speedy dribbling are of the highest importance. When dribbling, the forwards should work to the off side of the backs, so as to draw them wide of their goal, and when tackling seems imminent, pass sharply away. They should keep as far as possible from the opposing backs, except when the ball is on the goal line, when they should try and force a corner.

It is upon the half-back the direction of the game devolves. Against him he has opposed the centre-forward of the other side, and, as a rule, the most speedy swimmer in it. He must never let him go unwatched, and must also keep well in touch with his own backs. Except under special circumstances, he should never attempt to shoot goals, preferring rather to feed his forwards, or, when strongly ateach other. Above all, they must avoid fouling, for so close to goal a foul is almost certainly a goal thrown away.

The goalkeeper, though not necessarily a speedy swimmer, requires to be very alert; must know when to fist out, catch, or concede a corner, and what distance to throw out.

The ability to pass and throw accurately can only be developed by constant practice and the careful watching of good men; but some useful hints can, however, be given on recognised styles of passing and throwing.

First of all the player has to know how to dispose of his body, for on that depends to a large extent the force of his throw.

In what is known as the forward shoulder throw, the ball is lifted from the water to the side of the head, the left arm is stretched out in front and the legs drawn up; then, as the ball is thrown, the legs are forced rapidly down. When shooting at goal in this style, the player should be uncovered and make what is known as the ricochet throw, the ball touching the water with force a couple of yards in front of the goalkeeper, and rising over, or at the side of him into goal. But for ordinary shooting the "back throw" is more commonly used. In this method the player seizing the ball turns rapidly on his back, brings his legs to the front, and, as the body advances, the ball can be shot forward with great force. But if the leg kick be not properly made, the body will sink and the throw prove abortive. It is when an opponent is making this throw that scientific tackling comes to the aid of the opposing side, an endeavour being made to seize the upraised arm, or tip the ball out of the hand. Good passing is, on the whole, more difficult than accurate throwing, particularly that termed the "Pass back." This is made when the player is in difficulty; but it is a style which should never be adopted unless the player can depend upon his own accuracy, for he cannot see where the ball is travelling and can only guess the position. Yet it is a common pass, and to such perfection has it been brought by many players that they can place the ball behind them within a yard of where they judge their men to be. The hand should be placed under the ball and the latter quickly raised above the surface. Immediately it is clear, the ball is thrown back over the head, the disengaged hand being forced down into the water and a leg stroke taken. It is possible to make this throw with either hand, as well as to send the ball by deflections of the hand to right or left, high or low. 66 "over arm. وو Then there are two other passes, developments of which come by practice. These are the breast stroke and over arm."

The "breast stroke" can be made with either hand, and is used when a player desires to pass to the right or left. When, for example, in dribbling up there is a likelihood of being tackled, the player passes on the side opposite to that on which his opponent is approaching, and so skilful can a player become with either hand, that while passing he is able to continue his swimming. In the over arm" pass the ball is taken with the uppermost hand and passed either in the line of sight to the rear, or behind; but it is perhaps the most difficult of all to cultivate, though very useful to a half-back. By far the best passes are those which can be used with the Trudgen" stroke, for, when that stroke is employed, the opponents can be seen all through the game, a matter of impossibility when the over arm stroke is used. It is invaluable when dribbling, as the ball may be driven along rapidly, passes made quickly, and either hand used. When a player is dribbling, the ball is allowed to drift between the arms, striking them or the chin as the player progresses, but never being actually held. The opposing side cannot then duck the swimmer without fouling, and must pick the ball out from between his extended arms. 66 The rules of the game, so far as Great Britain and Ireland are concerned, cannot be altered, except at the Annual Meetings of the International Board, which represents the English, Scotch, Welsh, and Irish Amateur Swimming Associations. first international match was one between The [SWIMMING won England and Scotland at Kensington Baths,