Tramp
Old name for the crampits affixed to the boots of players.
Tricker or Trigger.-Pieces of iron shod with spikes, which could be fixed at any point of the ice behind the tee, and from which the player in old times delivered his cast.
Wick.-[See INWICK.] Winner. The stone lying nearest to the tee at any particular moment in the game.
Wittyr.-[See TEE.] Bibliography. - Songs for the Curling Club held at Canon-mills, by a Member (J. Robertson, Edinburgh), 1792; An Account of the Game of Curling, by a Member of the Duddingston Curling Society-the Revd. John Ramsay-the Earliest History of the Game (Edinburgh "Correspondent" Office), 1811, private; Reprint of the two foregoing works in I volume, 250 copies, 1882; A Descriptive and Historical Sketch of Curling, &c., H. Crawford (Kilmarnock), 1828; Memorabilia Curliana Mabensia, Sir Richard Brown, Bart. of Coalstoun (J. Sinclair, Dumfries), 1830, Essay on Curling and Artificial Pond-Making, J. Cairnie Largs (Glasgow), 1833; The Channelor Sweepings frae the Rinks, Series I. IV., edited by Captain Macnair (Edinburgh), 1884; The Ancient Scottish Game, illustrated by C. A. Doyle, Revd. Jas. Taylor (Paterson, Edinburgh), 1887; The History of Curling, John Kerr (Douglas, Edinburgh), 1890, also article_in "Skating" (Badminton Library); Ice Sports, The Isthmian Library, "Curling," by Quintin Kerr (Ward, Lock), 1901; The Book of Winter Sports, edited by E. and M. Syers (Arnold), 1908.
Stane:
CYCLING.- Note. This article is arranged in the following sections: I. Learning to Ride.
II. Buying a Bicycle. III. General Remarks on Road Riding. IV. Cycling Dress. V. Cycling for Women. VI. Rule of the Road. VII. Touring. VIII. Cycling Institutions. IX. Mechanical Details of the Bicycle. A certain amount of overlap has been inevitable. Change-speed gears, for example, are discussed both under III. and IX., but in the former are treated from a riding, and in IX. from a mechanical, point of view, and this distinction has as far as possible been observed throughout.
I.-1. LEARNING TO RIDE. -The balance of a bicycle is maintained by turning its front wheel toward the direc- [CURLING tion in which it is falling: in actual practice, of course, the tendency to fall is automatically counteracted rather by the rider slightly and unconsciously inclining his body from side to side as required; but the novice must begin by consciously turning the handlebar. If the prospective rider has not even an inexperienced friend to help him, he should procure a strong but antiquated and valueless machine, and lowering the saddle so that he can straddle the machine, and selecting a piece of road which has a very slight downward gradient, should throw one leg over the machine, seat himself, and, following the pedals round with his feet, do his best to put the above principle into practice.
He should take care to keep the machine going fast enough to secure steering way.
The difficulty will at first be considerable, but he should remember that he can always save himself by thrusting out a leg. As he progresses, he will discover how very slight is the force required for steering, and how great a bias the mere inclination of the body exercises over the machine. It should be explained that we are assuming that a freewheel bicycle is used. 2. Should he possess a friend who will help him, his task will be easier; and it is to the latter that our instructions are better addressed. The assistant should hold the machine upright by grasping the saddle springs so that the learner does not know for certain whether he is not riding by himself, and, running with the machine, should give it that necessary motion which the learner is apt to minimise. Except to help in starting, he should refrain from touching the handlebars. The novice, when he has fairly mastered the balance, should again select a slightly downhill road, and holding the handles and placing his left foot on the step, should hop on the other till the pace attained admits of his straightening his left leg and balancing himself with his other leg hanging across the back wheel, while the machine runs by its own momentum. After a little more practice he will discover that from this position he can easily and without assistance lower himself forward into the saddle, which should, as we have said above, be adjusted very low, and should commence pedalling. At this stage of the rider's progress, dismounting is a problem which solvitur ambulando. The simplest form of dismount is to shoot back over the saddle, and alight straddling the back wheel; or, more simple still, merely to remove one foot from the pedal, and, as it were, step back out of the saddle. Before trying these last two methods, make sure that you can CYCLING] straddle the back wheel with safety, and do not diminish your length of leg by bending the knees. Men who are too short in the leg to effect this dismount in safety must at once learn to dismount in the manner shown in para. 4. Or, in any case, the rider may begin by cautiously feeling for the step with his left foot, raising himself on it out of the saddle, and stepping backwards. 3. Mounting.- The ordinary method of mounting is to place the left foot on the step, set the machine in motion by hopping with the right foot on the ground, straighten the left knee, and, from the standing position so attained, to slip forward into the saddle, placing at the same time the right foot on the pedal. Before mounting, the right pedal should be placed slightly forward of the vertical. This can, of course, be done without lifting the machine-by turning the cranks backward on the free wheel. In practice, most practical riders find the step a nuisance. It is always ready, when the bicycle is being wheeled, to bark the shins of the rider, and when the bicycle is stacked with others it has an irresistible attraction for their spokes. If, therefore, the rider can manage with the following mounts, it is well to remove the step, unless the machine has a change-speed gear. In this case it is generally necessary for the protection of part of the gear mechanism. The simplest mount (especially if the rider has the sense to abstain from putting his saddle too high) is effected by placing one of the pedals (usually the right) slightly in advance of the vertical, and, standing if possible on higher ground than the machine, e.g., on the crown of the road, or, best of all, on a friendly kerbstone, by throwing one leg over the saddle so as to rest on the pedal, and then with one movement applying the pressure to the pedal, and sliding into the seat. This mount is at first difficult in crowded streets, but it puts less strain on the machine than any other method except the stepmount.
The neatest of all mounts is the pedal mount, which is effected by putting the left pedal in advance of the vertical, taking hold of the handles, running on the left side of the machine, and while it is in motion putting the left foot on the pedal and springing from it into the saddle, throwing the right foot over the back wheel. In doing this a certain amount of weight should be thrown on to the handlebar. Some riders mount by putting the left pedal at its lowest, straddling the machine, placing the left foot on the left pedal, and starting the machine and mounting in the same way as in the step mount. The machine, of course, during the process of mounting runs on the free wheel. The hopping may be dispensed with by running with the machine and throwing the right foot over the back wheel. In either case care must be taken not to let the weight dwell on the pedal, as this throws a most undesirable strain on the crank bearing and frame. 4. Dismounting.- The methods of dismount explained in paragraph 2, of springing or stepping back from the saddle, will always be found useful. But every rider should have the mastery of several forms of dismount, as in crowded traffic he has to consider exactly what space is available for landing. From this point of view the pedal dismount is indispensable. This is effected by putting the left pedal to its lowest, and throwing the right leg over the saddle and back wheel, meanwhile retaining his grip of the handles. He will thus alight standing on the left of the machine. He will soon discover that he can dismount without troubling about the position of the pedal. The practised rider will, of course, in dismounting, throw as much of his weight as possible on to the handles, so as to minimise the strain on the frame caused by throwing it all on to the pedal.
The same dismount should be practised from the right pedal. Other dismounts are made by passing either foot over the top tube, and so alighting by the side of the machine (a form of dismount greatly facilitated by the X frame), or by throwing either foot over the handlebars, rapidly removing and replacing in turn the hands during the process. These dismounts come under the head of freaks, but they have their value in riding tandems or in drawing a trailer. (See paras. 31 and 32.) a II.-5. BUYING A BICYCLE.-In these days of cheap bicycles there is little point in buying a second-hand machine unless its life-history is well known. With excellent machines purchaseable at six guineas, the saving of a pound or two in this way is a doubtful economy.
Exceptional bargains are occasionally to be had, but in general a rider does not sell a bicycle unless it has seen its best days, and we should have no hesitation in recommending as a general rule the purchase of a cheap new bicycle of a good make in preference to the average second-hand machine of higher quality. 6. If a new machine is to be bought, the choice lies between one made by one of the great firms manufacturing complete bicycles, or one built by a local man out of parts made by one of the componentmaking houses. The advantage of the former course is that the bicycle-making houses, turning out complete machines in large quantities, are able to sell a good bicycle at a price with which the small man cannot compete. They can afford to reject frames that have gone wrong in the brazing, whereas the small man who has not the plant to make bicycles cheaply and efficiently cannot do this, but will often do his best to tinker up his failures. Lastly, a machine bearing the trade mark of a great firm is always a saleable piece of property, whereas it is difficult to find a market for a machine of purely local repute. On the other hand, it is very easy to replace locally parts of a well-known brand of components which have been injured in use. Some of the bicycle-building firms supply their local agents on trust with a stock of spare parts for replacement, but the practice is not so general as it might be. A very important step has lately been taken by the largest firm of component makers. They build themselves complete bicycles, which bear a special transfer indicating that the machine has wholly been built in their works. These are not supplied direct to the public, but to local dealers who affix to them their own transfers in addition to the makers' transfer which they already bear. The local man has not the right to alter the machine in any way, and any one of these bicycles, from whomever it is bought, is the same as any other. The company also build complete frames, which bear a different transfer to the former, and in this case the wheels will have been built locally. In any case each component bears the stamped trade mark of the manufacturers. In this way the objection to component-built machines is met.
It is not, however, every rider who will appreciate the catholicity of pattern, even with its attendant advantages, inseparable from such machines, and many of the machines of the bicycle firms, especially those of the more expensive grades, include special features of detail which are not to be found in the former. These are a matter of choice to the individual rider, and some of the more important of them are noticed in the following pages. The best way of choosing a bicycle is to visit the Stanley Show, or the sale room of a dealer who has a good selection of machines, take away a selection of catalogues, and study them at home, discussing with experienced friends their relative advantages. There is not much difficulty in learning which firms have a solid reputation to keep up. It may be [CYCLING added that too much importance need not be attached to races won or records made on any particular make of machine or tyre.
In regard to price, it may be stated that the maximum of value for money is attained with the cheaper machines of the great firms which cost from about £6 upwards. Every pound over this minimum brings its return, though perhaps a diminishing one, in better quality of tyres, saddle, and chain, and of general finish, and a wellto-do cyclist will do well to buy a machine of the highest price which to-day is with rare exceptions somewhere about £15, including a three-speed gear and gear-case. Without these fittings the price is about £12 or £13. It is a matter of the highest importance to have first-grade tyres, and retrenchments in this direction are inadvisable. 7. In buying or ordering a cycle, it is important to see that it is fitted to the rider's personal requirements. He should insist on having the frame of the proper height, i.e., so that it is not too high to prevent proper adjustment (see paras. 12 and 55), or so low that an excessive amount of seat pillar is exposed; state whether he wants free wheel, change-speed gear, and mud-guards, and carefully specify his wishes in such details as shape of handlebars, material of handles, weight and gear of machine, throw of crank, and make of saddle and tyres. The novice will do well either to get a friend to see to these details, or, failing this, to furnish the maker or dealer with particulars as to his weight, length of reach, as well as the kind of work for which he intends the machine. 8. Local Agents. - We strongly advise the purchase of well-known machines through local agents. It is a delusion to suppose that the casual purchaser can buy for less money in Holborn Viaduct than from a dealer in his own town. Moreover, it is not well to be on terms of enmity with the local repairer. 9. Maker's Guarantees. -The maker's guarantee usually covers all breakages (not the result of accident or misuse) which occur within a twelve-month. Many makers extend this guarantee to a longer period than a year, and some without any timelimit. 10. Second-hand Machines. A second year's machine by a first-class maker, and in good condition, should be worth about half its original cost. A number of good machines are advertised for sale in the cycling papers. Choose an advertisement that is business-like and to the point, e.g., 1909**** No. I. 30 lb. Dunlop, Carter, Sturmey-Archer 3 speed, normal 70; ،، CYCLING] 7-inch cranks; 25 frame; £7"; this is evidently written by a cyclist for cyclists. Advertisements which descant on the beauties of the plating and enamel are to be avoided, and still more those headed in some such way as "Beeston Humber pattern"a palpable attempt to persuade the buyer that he is getting a Beeston Humber when he is not.
It now remains to inspect the machine.
If the owner consent, take it home and examine it at leisure. If, as is not unreasonable, he refuse, look first at the teeth of the back chain wheel; any wear will be most apparent here. If the backward side of the teeth is deeply worn, have nothing to do with the machine.
Next test the bearings when adjusted (see paragraphs 59, 85, 86); if they will not run freely without considerable side shake and seem tight in one place and loose in another, considerable and uneven wear is indicated. Try also whether the head can be correctly adjusted. Next inspect the frame for dents and twists, and see that the wheels track. This is easily done if the machine is on a boarded floor; if not, judge it by the eye, or by a straight stick laid along the frame. See that the wheels are true and the tyres in good order. Make sure that the chain wheels are in line; this is best ascertained by seeing that the teeth of the chain wheels do not rub against the side links. Test the frame for rigidity as prescribed in para. 56, and keep a look-out for uneven places in the enamel that may conceal a dent.
III.-11. ROAD RIDING IN GENERAL.-Too many beginners are under the impression that when once they have mastered the difficulties of steering, mounting, and dismounting, their cycling education is complete. How general this fallacy is can be seen by looking at three out of every four cyclists one meets, who, while sufficiently expert at controlling their machines, are entirely lacking in that finish which stamps a good rider. In riding, the body should be kept absolutely at rest; fidgeting and wriggling in the saddle, and any movement of the shoulders, should be especially avoided.
As he progresses, the rider will discover that steering is effected not so much by the hands as by a gentle inclination of the body; this he will pick up automatically as he grows in proficiency, and to this end he should practise riding hands off, not as an end in itself (nothing looks worse than cheap showing off of this kind), but to perfect his steering. 1 12. Position. - First of all the machine, which should, as stated in paras. 7 and 55, be properly fitted to the rider, must be properly adjusted. The saddle should be raised to such a height that when the pedal is at its lowest, the toe can be placed under it, while the knee just misses being absolutely straightened at the joint; the centre of the saddle should be about ten inches behind a vertical line drawn through the crank axle. The handles should be about level with the saddle, so that when one is sitting upright, the handles can just be grasped. Many fast riders ride TANDEM TRICYCLE. MESSRS. STANCER AND LEAKE BREAKING LONDON TO BRIGHTON RECORD, 1910. with a more forward position, and the handles lower than this, but for all-round purposes this is the best position. When the rider is reasonably expert he will discover for himself the position in which he can ride best; it is a great mistake to imagine that the same position must necessarily suit all cyclists. The tilt of the saddle is an important factor in position. The peak of the saddle should be about an inch higher than the back or cantle. If the rider finds that too much of his weight is resting on the wrists, this will be due to one of three causes, viz., that the saddle is insufficiently tilted, the handlebars are too low in relation to the saddle, or the handlebars are not brought far enough back. The first two of these defects can be rectified by trial and error, but it should always be remembered that a saddle excessively tilted is uncomfortable and may produce serious effects in bruising the delicate tissues in the fork of the leg. For handles which are too far forward there is no remedy but a new handlebar. It is unfortunate that so many of the handlebars offered on machines seem deliberately contrived to bring the handles too far forward. 13. The Saddle. The number of saddles is legion, and it is impossible to offer advice on the subject of their choice which will be useful to all riders. One cyclist will be comfortable on a saddle which will be torture to another. There is nothing for it but to try repeated experiments to which an obliging dealer will probably lend himself. Of saddles in which the peak is eliminated, we have no good to say; the absence of the peak makes the rider lose the grip of the saddle which is essential.
Attention should be drawn to the fact that certain saddles are made in an extra large size. Many riders suffer discomfort of which they do not realise the cause by using too small a saddle. 14. Ankle Action. -The great thing in cycling is to attain to an effective use of the ankles; if these be kept stiff, the power of each foot can only be exerted through a comparatively small arc of the circle described by the pedals. When the cranks are vertical the rider will find that there is a dead point, at which he can exert no power whatever, and the impetus of the machine alone is carrying him on. To overcome this dead point is the aim of ankle action.
If the ankle be relaxed, it will be found quite possible so to incline the foot to the leg, that power may be exerted before this dead point with the rising pedal, and after it with the descending one, and the gain in efficiency is tremendous.
To this end the ball of the foot should rest upon the pedal: at the beginning of each stroke, before the pedal reaches the vertical, the heel should be dropped, and pressure at once applied to the pedal by a kind of clawing action; during the downstroke the heel will naturally rise relatively to the rest of the foot, till, when the pedal is at its lowest, it is uppermost; a further clawing action will bring the pedal past this point till it is again well on the ascent; the foot should then be lightly lifted, without, of course, leaving the pedal, but so as not to impede its upward course, till just before fresh revolution is commenced the heel is again dropped, and the process begun afresh. a With good ankle action much of the work is taken by the calf muscles, which will be largely developed, especially on the side and towards the front of the leg. Pulling at the handles will be almost entirely obviated when the going is easy, and minimised when [CYCLING it is heavy. The practised ankler will, for road riding at all events, be able to dispense with the uncomfortable toe-clip. This contrivance, necessary for the safety of the racing man, is to be eschewed by the novice as it militates against the attainment of a good action. Its later adoption is matter of individual taste. a 15. Sideslip.-On greasy roads the wheels have a tendency to slip from under the rider: a certain amount of slip in the back wheel is immaterial, but when the front wheel slips the whole machine generally goes over. Corrugated tyres minimise this danger to some extent: but the best safeguard lies with the rider. Funk and nervousness are fatal. Keep on the crown of the road, sit still in the saddle, ride at an easy pace, pedal lightly and carefully; hold the handles lightly and give the machine its head; if it is necessary to turn, do so gradually; be prepared to save yourself if the machine really goes, but do not jump off wildly because you feel a twitch from the back wheel. Tramlines should be crossed as nearly as possible at a right angle. Greasy patches are best crossed while free wheeling. 16. Nursing the Machine. In no case is the difference between a good and bad rider more observable than on a rough road. In surmounting an obstacle, a practised rider will not allow his weight to descend heavily on the springs of the saddle, but will minimise it by momentarily shifting some of it to the handlebars and pedals, thus distributing the shock over the whole machine. 17. Hill Climbing differs only in degree from ordinary riding; and in this direction good ankle action will be found indispensable. Purchase is gained by pulling at the handlebars, not in jerks but steadily.
The best results are obtained by leaning forward over the handlebars, but on a long hill a change of position is beneficial, and the rider may lean backwards, pulling steadily the while. Riding through deep mud and against a head wind come under the same category as hill climbing, but in the latter case it is absolutely necessary to lean forward in order to diminish the surface presented to the wind. 18. The Free Wheel. It is not too much to say that the introduction or rather popularisation of the free wheel has had the effect of reducing the efficiency of many riders by at least one-third. This result is due, not to the proper use, but to the abuse of a valuable contrivance. The riders to whom we have referred progress by what may be termed three pats and a wobble; they give two or three digs at the pedals, CYCLING] and then let the machine run on by its own momentum, till its motion is on the point of expiring from inanition. That this is an exhausting method of riding should be evident to anyone who gives the matter a moment's consideration, for the inertia of an almost stationary bicycle has to be overcome every time the process is begun, and it is much more tiring to keep restarting in this way than to exert the very small amount of force necessary to keep the machine travelling at an easy pace. The average speed attained by these riders is between four and five miles an hour, but the fatigue involved would be considerably less if they pedalled continuously and travelled at eight miles an hour. The legitimate uses of the free wheel are in descending hills, when, if pressure is to be kept on the pedals, the rate of pedalling becomes so fast as to be irksome, in negotiating traffic when a momentary pause is necessary, and in crossing slippery ground. Otherwise, to let the machine run free on the level or uphill (as we have often noticed with the easygoing riders to whom we have referred) is simply an abuse of the free wheel. 19. Descending Hills. The rider of a freewheel bicycle is entirely dependent on his brakes for checking the machine. Of these there should be two, one on each wheel, and independently applied, so that if one fails the other is available. Front wheel brakes are always hand applied; the choice between hand-applied and footapplied (back-pedalling) brakes for the back wheel is purely a matter of personal preference. Each is equally efficient. The proper use of the brakes requires learning.
Their sudden and violent application is destructive to the tyres and strains the machine, while, especially in the case of the front brake, it may unseat the rider. The back brake is at once more powerful and less violent in its action than the front brake, and will in practice be that generally used.
The use of the front brake is rather to be regarded as an emergency measure, or as auxiliary to that of the back wheel on long descents. The rider should, however, make a point of consciously using the front brake from time to time, for otherwise when he needs it he may at a fatal moment forget its existence, or, applying it with an unaccustomed hand, may succeed in upsetting the machine. In any case, he should practise the gradual application of each brake, increasing the pressure gently as he feels the contact of the brake-blocks with the rims until full power is exercised. The process is not so lengthy as it sounds, as its full and conscientious performance can be com- 1 THE TATE LIBRARY, BRIXTON, S.W27 pressed into a second. The front brake should on no account be applied in crossing slippery ground.
Most of the fatal accidents which occur on steep hills are due to the free wheel. The rider lets his machine run free, and the feeling is exhilarating. What he does not realise is that he is very probably travelling at forty miles an hour, and when he suddenly encounters a cart or a sharp twist in the road, and applies his brakes, one of two things happens. The brakes are unable to stop the machine, and he runs into the obstacle, or - since an object travelling at forty miles an hour cannot be brought with impunity TANDEM CYCLE. MESSRS. FAWLEY AND PEISER BREAKING LIVERPOOL TO LONDON RECORD, 1904. to a standstill in two or three yards-he and his bicycle part company. The rider must, therefore, learn to gauge his speed, and the readiest way of doing this is to use a cyclometer. The rate of ticking as the spur wheel hits the striker affords a useful if rough guide to speed, and the rider who is not warned by its rapid acceleration deserves the fate which awaits him. In emergencies something may be done by pressing the foot on to the tyre in front of the fork crown, or, better still, if there be no mudguard, behind the fork crown, or by crushing the mudguard on to the tyre; but these are desperate remedies, and the novice is more than likely to bring himself at once to grief in attempting them.
Many accidents, of course, are due to the rider having neglected the adjustment of his brakes. Directions for this adjustment will be found in paras. 106 sqq.
The best directions for descending hills are to keep a steady seat, and not to let the bicycle get away unless the bottom of the hill and the road beyond it can be seen to be clear. If the bicycle begins to get away, and the brakes will not hold it, jump off backwards at once before a worse thing happen. It is always worth while practising this dismount in descending hills, for an expert rider can manage it at speeds which to the novice would seem hopeless.
If the worst come to the worst, it should be borne in mind that hedges are much softer than walls, carts, or even foot passengers. 20. To ride a fixed-wheel bicycle argues in these days considerable experience on the part of the rider, for the use of these machines is practically confined to fast work, whether on road or path. To offer advice to these gentlemen on the subject of descending hills would be an impertinence, but for the sake of completeness we may here state that fixed-wheel machines may be controlled by back pedalling. This is effected by applying pressure to the rising pedal, using the ankles in exactly the opposite way to that advised for forward pedalling. When the labour of keeping the machine under control becomes excessive, it may be relieved by the rider holding himself down in the saddle by the hand. It may be added that with a fixed wheel too abrupt back pedalling may break the chain. 21. Gearing. The question of gearing from a mechanical point of view is discussed in para. 65. It need hardly be explained that the higher the gear the further the machine travels at each stroke of the pedals, and the greater is the force needed at each stroke to drive it. Thus for hill climbing a very high gear is inadvisable; there is a limit to the amount of force which any rider can put into his stroke (e.g., a bicycle geared to 1,000 could not be driven at all), and as this limit is approached, the effect of the heavy work is very tiring. On the other hand, below a certain point additional ease of driving becomes inappreciable on a level road, while the foot has to be lifted much oftener with a low gear.
In riding with the wind or down an easy gradient not steep enough for the machine to be allowed to run free, a high gear is very advantageous. In the old days, when bicycles were fitted with single gears only, the rider had to make the best compromise possible under these conditions. If he lived in a hilly district he would use a low gear, and vice versa. Now, however, he has the resource of using two or threespeed gears, and can, without leaving the saddle, lower his gear to climb a hill or raise it for a stretch of easy going. Some riders, however, object to the additional [CYCLING weight and complication of these contrivances, and prefer to use a single gear. It will be convenient, therefore, first to deal with the considerations which govern the choice of a single gear and underlie those determining the choice of a change-speed gear, and then to set out the advantages and disadvantages of each. 22. Plain Gears and Length of Crank.- Length of crank is an essential element in gearing. The longer the crank, the more leverage the rider has, and thus a gear of 80 with an 8-inch crank is not harder to drive than a 70 gear with a 7-inch crank.
It is, of course, more laborious to lift the foot to the greater height and carry it through the larger circle involved by the longer crank. This consideration fixes a 9-inch crank as about the maximum length to which the crank can be increased, and at the same time leads many riders to prefer the lighter pedalling which accompanies a short crank. It may incidentally be stated that a long crank necessitates a stronger and therefore heavier machine to resist the stronger thrust, and that many machines have not sufficient space between the crank bracket and the front wheel to admit of its safe use. The choice of crank length is largely a matter of individual preference, and it is worth while for a rider to take any opportunity that offers of experimenting with a long-crank machine. The great majority of riders are without doubt best suited by a 7-inch crank.
The normal proportion of crank length to gearing may be stated as one inch of crank to ten inches of gear. This proportion of gear may be lowered in the case of a lightly built rider, and raised in the case of one with powerful muscles. A 7-inch crank with a 70 gear has been found to suit the great majority of riders, or in the case of women a 64-inch crank with a 63 gear. This proportion forms a convenient starting-point for the consideration of change-speed gears. are 23. Change-speed Gears. There three types of change-speed gear on the market: (I) the three-speed gear, (2) the two-speed gear with the normal gear (i.e., that in which the special mechanism lies idle) high, and (3) the two-speed gear with the normal gear low. Of these the three-speed gear offers obvious advantages, the two-speed gears only justifying their existence by superior lightness. With three-speed gears the middle speed is almost invariably normal, and the rider will therefore select for this the gear that best suits him on a plaingeared machine, profiting by the higher and CYCLING] lower gears under the special conditions to which they are applicable. In Type 2 the rider will choose as his high speed the gear which he has been accustomed to use on a plain-geared machine, using the low speed for hill-climbing and riding against the wind. He may, however, slightly increase his normal gear, as he will not be using it for the hardest work. Type 3 should be regarded as essentially intended for fast work. It is in effect a three-speed gear minus the low speed, and the low or normal gear should be that which the rider would choose on a plain-geared machine, the high being reserved for occasions favourable to speed. The writer regards it as a mistake for the ordinary rider to adopt this type of gear. If his object is (as is generally the case) to have a low gear available for arduous conditions of riding, he will be using the higher gear for the greater part of his riding, and will therefore be working nearly always against the increased friction of the special mechanism. Cyclists who wish to have the opposite point of view put before them as persuasively as possible would do well to communicate with the Sunbeam Cycle Co. 24. Change-speed gears are often abused in this way. The cyclist switches on the low gear and imagines that his speed uphill will be increased enormously. He therefore pedals fast up the hill, and is surprised to reach the top exhausted, and to be passed on the way by riders of plain gears. It cannot be too strongly emphasised that the object of the low gear is not increased speed, but increased ease. With the low gear it is possible to climb steep hills with a minimum of exertion, but at a reduced pace. The effect of this on the day's mileage is considerable, as the rider, after mounting the hill, is fresh and fit for his subsequent exertions. The ideal of riding with a changespeed gear is that the gear should have an infinite number of variations, and that the cyclist should never vary his rate of pedalling, but should attain speed or power simply by changing his gear. With only three changes of gear, this ideal is unattainable, but at all events on switching in the low gear the rider should maintain something like his previous rate of pedalling, and not attempt to maintain his previous rate of actual speed. If it is desired to climb hills at high speed, the result is better attained by using a plain-geared machine. 25. This brings us to the point of the relative advantages of plain and change-speed gears. The plain gear has the merit of simplicity; there are no extra points needing adjustment or liable to injury on railways or steamers and in hotel stables, and the wires of a change-speed gear are very vulnerable. Weight is saved, and it is, moreover, incontestable that a plain gear runs with more life than a change-speed gear even on its normal speed. The plain gear suits the young, vigorous, and active; the change-speed gear meets the need of those who do not feel themselves equal to hard work or fast pedalling. Riders who can afford two machines would do well to have a light plain-geared machine for home use, and a change-speed machine for touring. 26. Pedals. In the case of machines intended for all-round work, these should be wide enough to take ordinary walking shoes MR. LEON MEREDITH. (Winner of Championships at Five, Twenty-five and Fifty Miles.) or boots. For fast work narrow pedals are undoubtedly the best, but the average rider wants a machine which he can ride in ordinary clothes, and it is an intolerable nuisance not to be able to get the feet between the side plates of the pedals.
Pedals are either "rat-trap," i.e., the shoe bears on a metal frame armed with sharp teeth, or they have for this purpose rubber or felt blocks. Rat-trap pedals are light, but they are destructive to the shoes, and the teeth soon wear down, in which case the grip afforded to the foot is very insecure. This is met by having the shoes fitted with leather blocks made to fit into the pedals, but such shoes are very inconvenient except for racing. (See, however, under para. 33, sub. fin.). Rat-trap pedals, moreover, tire the feet by the vibration which they communicate. For ordinary purposes rubber or felt pedals give a better grip, and are more comfortable. Of these 1 we prefer felt as being more durable and lighter. 27. Toe-clips. These are attached to the pedals, and are intended to prevent the foot from slipping. They are, however, uncomfortable, and, except for racing, their use is not recommended. If a decent ankle action is acquired (and its acquisition is hindered by the use of toe-clips), rubber or felt pedals give a perfectly safe grip. - 28. Handlebars. - For average road riding we prefer flat handlebars well brought back. For fast work they are usually dropped, i.e., bent downwards. Upcurved handlebars are useful in enabling a tall rider to use a low frame without exposing an undue length of handlebar stem. Otherwise they serve the purposes only of riders who ride with their handles at an excessive height. Little choice is given by the makers in width of handlebars. Eighteen inches may be given as a convenient width for a rider of average size. 30. Tricycling. - Considerations of cost and cumbrousness have had much to do with the disrepute into which the tricycle has rather unjustly fallen. It is, of course, slower than the bicycle, but not to the extent that is commonly supposed, while it has the great advantage of freedom from sideslip.
There is also an absence of the nervous strain inseparable from bicycling, and due to the unconscious but none the less present effort of preserving the balance-a strain which makes itself felt toward the end of a long ride. The tricycle is also a very convenient machine for the carriage of luggage, and in the double driving variety the strain of driving is distributed between two wheels, and bears less hardly on the tyres than in the case of a bicycle. Its chief drawbacks lie in its weight, comparative cumbrousness in storage and carriage, and in the fact that it makes three tracks, for which reason a rough road at the edge of which a bicycle can find good going may be almost impassable to a tricycle. On all novices at tricycling must be impressed the necessity of leaning inwards in turning corners, and on bicyclists the fact that a tricycle balances itself. A bicyclist mounted on a tricycle on a steeply cambered road will by instinct turn his machine into the ditch, because the machine feels as if it were falling that way. The remedy is obvious, but it takes practice to get rid of the bicycle habit. 31. Tandem Riding. In tandems designed for two men, and in mixed tandems on which the man sits in front, the steering is left to the front rider, the rear handles being rigidly fixed. The advantage of a tandem is that as the riders sit one behind [CYCLING the other, while their united power is available for the propulsion of the machine, the resistance of the air amounts to little more than that to be faced on a single. In order, however, to get the best results out of a tandem, the riders must learn to pedal well together. The tandem is at its best on the level, though its disabilities as a hill-climber have been exaggerated. The point is that hill-climbing puts to the severest test the skill of a tandem pair in working together, and as this skill is not very common, the machine gets the discredit. A tandem is, however, valuable as enabling a strong and a weak rider to cover together distances which would be altogether beyond the power of the weaker alone. This advantage of the tandem makes it very suitable for use by a man and a woman.
The question whether the man or the woman should sit in front has settled itself in favour of the man. The latter, therefore, has to dismount by passing his foot over the frame (see para. 4), and, in view of this necessity, the dropped frame shown in Fig. 35 is invaluable. It is, moreover, practically as strong as the common type with high frame, and is strong enough for two Change-speed gears are particularly useful on tandems. It may be added that, in view of the great strain on tandem tyres, their condition should be a matter for special vigilance. men. a two- 32. Trailers. The trailer is wheeled car attached by a swivel joint to the seat pillar of a bicycle. In level country it does not add so much as might be expected to the labour of driving, but up anything like a steep hill riding becomes next to impossible. Short hills must be rushed. The trailer necessitates a good deal of skill on the part of the cyclist. He has a long tail to manœuvre in traffic, and must be prepared to dismount at a moment's notice without fouling his machine. The X-frame bicycle shown in Fig. 2a, from which the dismount across the frame is very easy, is particularly useful for riding with a trailer.
Corners must be taken at a very moderate pace, and not too sharply, otherwise the trailer will certainly be upset.
IV.-33. CYCLING DRESS.-The best material for cycling garments of every kind is wool-wool throughout. For casual riding there is perhaps no very great risk in riding in a canvas shirt, but if there is any prospect of getting hot, the danger of catching cold is considerable. Woollen garments are non-absorbent and permit of the ready escape by vaporisation of the perspiration, and, being non-conductors of 4 CYCLING heat, keep the air within them at an even temperature; cotton, on the other hand, absorbs and retains all moisture, and hangs, wet and chilly, on the body; being a ready conductor of heat, it at once exposes the wearer to all changes in the temperature of the air, besides permanently retaining perspiration in an unpleasant manner. Firstly, of underclothing. In summer a flannel shirt, preferably_with a detachable flannel collar, is enough for anyone. In winter this should be supplemented by a woollen vest and short drawers; omission of the latter in frosty weather tends to produce chaps and soreness.
The shape of cycling garments is mostly a matter of taste: for ourselves we prefer Norfolk jackets, which, having no particular shape to lose, may be suffered to lose it.
No coat used for really hard cycling will retain its shape.
Numerous pockets are indispensable; the fit should be easy; the sleeves should not be too long; and it should always be possible to turn up the collar and button it closely over the throat. Waistcoats are a mistake; in cold weather sweaters and cardigans are preferable.
Knickerbockers should be fairly full, and may be made either with buttons or straps; if box-cloth continuations are worn, they should be wool lined. Knickerbockers should have a hip pocket to hold the purse, for carrying anything in the ordinary side pockets when cycling is uncomfortable; the pocket is, moreover, liable to disgorge its contents. Cycling knickerbockers should all be double-seated outside; this requires an experienced cycling tailor, as, if it be unskilfully done, the seat rucks up into agonising wrinkles. For touring, we prefer flannel trousers secured by trouser-clips.
This is, of course, a matter of taste.
Stockings may either be worn short and secured by the buckle of the knickerbockers, or may be long enough to fold over, in which case the end of the breeches is secured to the leg itself, and the stocking folded over it. Tight garters are to be avoided; the best are plain bands of broad elastic. Many riders use puttees with advantage. A cloth cap is the best all-round headgear; in summer a felt tennis hat is even better. Ordinary straw hats are very unsuitable for cycling, and have been the cause of many accidents, owing to their flying off in descending hills when the rider makes an instinctive effort to clutch them.
Shoes should be of the orthodox cycling pattern, viz., rounded at the toes, flexible at the waist, and with very low heels. If laces are used, they should be fastened by hooks all the way down, and not by eyelet holes.
The drawback of laces is that they are apt to catch in the cottar pins, when, unless the lace breaks, a fall may result. For this reason riders who ride in boots should cultivate the habit of tying their laces on the outside of the ankle, i.e., the side remote from the crank. convenient in this respect, and comfort- Shoes which are secured by straps are able.
Some riders have the soles clumped and cut with slits for the reception of the plates of rat-trap pedals. Bars on the shoes are most uncomfortable for walking purposes.
MR. W. J. BAILEY STARTING FOR FLYING QUARTER-MILE RECORD a V.-34. BICYCLING FOR WOMEN. - The remarks made above need to be modified for women in the matter of mounting and dismounting. The complicating factor is the skirt. It is matter for regret that so few women have had the courage to adopt a sensible costume for cycling, and that the great majority should be content to ride machines obviously inferior in design to those intended for men, and to struggle against the pressure of the air with the enormous handicap offered by a square yard or so of fabric presented to the wind and hindering the movement of the knees. It would be a good thing if men who deride the adoption by women of rational dress would experiment themselves in a secluded place with a woman's bicycle and an improvised skirt.
There is only one method of mounting and dismounting possible for a woman wearing conventional dress. For mounting she should stand at the left side of the machine with the right pedal in advance of the vertical, place the foot upon it, and, by pressure on it, at once start the machine and lift herself with a slight spring into the saddle. For dismounting she passes the right foot through the frame, and, disengaging herself, again with a slight spring, from the saddle, alights standing on the left of the machine. It is useful to practice dismounting on the right side also, in case the exigencies of traffic make a dismount to the left inconvenient. 35. Cycling Dress for Women. - The remarks made under para. 33 in regard to the use of woollen materials apply here.
Certain firms, e.g., the Jaeger Co., make a speciality of woollen underclothing. Simplicity should be the great aim in cycling dress, and a tailor-made costume is in virtue of the absence of frills and other forms of decoration which accumulate dust, the best for the purpose. The hat should be small, and the trimming as simple as possible, with a view to minimising wind resistance and offering as little opportunity as possible for the lodgment of dust. The skirt should be short, and should measure about three yards round at the bottom.
Many women cut down old walking skirts to serve for cycling, removing from the back a V-shaped section. There is much to be said for this practice, as skirts used for cycling tend to become baggy at the knees, and this is a very good way of finishing out old garments. Anything in the way of braiding should be removed from the hem, as this is very apt to catch in the pedals, and a bad fall is almost sure to result. It is desirable to substitute for the petticoat a light pair of knickerbockers worn under the skirt.
VI.-36. THE RULE OF THE ROAD. -The carrying out of the rule of the road depends on the loyal co-operation of all its users. If a driver is overtaken who persistently drives wide or on the wrong side of the road, the cyclist is justified in doing the same. But in the event of an accident and resultant litigation, he will have to prove his case, and this will generally be very difficult.
Incidentally we would deprecate the habit which many cyclists have of seizing the narrowest opening between a carriage and the kerb, so as to save the trouble of going round it. The prudent driver does not shave a pavement crowded with pedestrians, and the cyclist has no business to poach upon the narrow margin of safety which he leaves. Moreover, the practice causes great danger to pedestrians crossing the road, who do not expect to find bicycles emerging from the wrong side of carriages. [CYCLING The importance of a strict observance of the rule of the road has been greatly increased by the advent of the motor-car. With these swiftly moving vehicles accidents happen with little warning, and it is only by scrupulous care on the part both of motorists and other users of the road that they can be avoided. In particular, corners should never be taken on the wrong side.
This has been a fruitful source of disaster, and no class of road user is free from blame in this respect. There is, however, no reason why cyclists should, on hearing the horn of an overtaking car, attempt to conceal themselves in the gutter. It is not necessary in ordinary circumstances to do more than keep to the left of the practicable part of the road. The cyclist, however, is not justified in blocking the road by refusing to leave the wooden strip in which tramways are often laid. If he is required to make way for overtaking traffic, he must move on to the macadam at the side. In this connection cyclists who may have imagined that motorists invariably announce their approach by the easily recognised horn may be warned against the railway whistles and cathedral chimes which a small minority of motorists employ. It would be convenient if a definite means of signalling approach were prescribed by law both for motorists and cyclists, for some of the latter for no assignable reason provide themselves with small motor horns. 37. Pedestrians are not required to keep the rule of the road, and it is the business of the cyclist to avoid them. This does not amount to saying that the pedestrian is free to move as he pleases, and to throw on the cyclist the responsibility for any and every collision. It is his business to follow a reasonable and consistent course, so that a careful rider can forecast his movements.
If he baffles the cyclist's calculations by suddenly changing his course, he is to blame for any resulting accident. The cyclist, on the other hand, must allow reasonable space for passing him. If the cyclist passes so close that a trifling swerve on the part of the pedestrian-probably the result of a start at finding the bicycle so near-causes a collision, the blame clearly rests on the cyclist. If for any reason it is necessary to pass a foot passenger at close quarters, the cyclist should slow up to a pace at which an instantaneous dismount is possible.
A very large proportion of accidents results from the reluctance of cyclists to submit to a few seconds' delay in getting past. These precautions must be redoubled when children have to be passed. The good pedestrian, when walking on the CYCLING] carriage way, should especially at night keep to the right, so that overtaking traffic is separated from him by the width of the road. He has little to fear from traffic which is in front of him and therefore visible.
It is always well to allow a foot or so of margin in riding by the side of a crowded footpath. Owing to the awkward circumstance that vehicles keep to the left and passengers on the footpath to the right, the latter, in stepping on to the carriage way, encounter traffic coming from behind, and, therefore, out of their sight. There is therefore every reason for giving the pavement a fairly wide berth, provided, of course, that the margin allowed is not so great as to cause obstruction in the road. 38. Special Laws Affecting Cyclists.- Cycles are carriages within the meaning of the Highway Acts, and are, by the Local Government Act of 1888, required to conform with the following additional provisions. (1) That between one hour after sunset and one before sunrise they must carry lighted lamps. (2) That in overtaking traffic they must "give audible notice of their approach by bell, whistle, or otherwise." It would have been more practical if cyclists had been compelled to carry bells, and the neglect to use them when necessary had been dealt with as an ordinary offence against the Highway Acts. We need hardly add that cycles, in common with all carriages, are in all circumstances prohibited from using the footpath. It is not incumbent on cyclists to carry tail lights, nor is the inconvenience of doing so balanced by any gain in safety. There is, however, much to be said for using toolbags made of white patent leather, or for the ingenious red reflector made by Lea and Francis. In each case the rays of the approaching motor lamp are pressed into service in indicating the position of the cyclist.
VII.-39. TOURING.-A tour should not be undertaken unless the rider is in fair health and riding condition, which is soon attained by a few preliminary spins. The machine should be thoroughly overhauled before starting, the bearings cleaned out with paraffin, and carefully adjusted and oiled. The rider should see that his frame and wheels are true, the spokes taut, and the brake fittings in order. Above all things he should not start with a defective tyre; if the jacket shows any signs of disintegration, a new one should be bought at once and the old one used up in subsequent home VOL. II riding. A bad tyre is an intolerable nuisance on a tour. We need hardly add that it is inexpedient to tour on a new and untried machine, and most of all on a new saddle. 66 It is as well roughly to map out the itinerary before starting, especially with a view to the forwarding of parcels of linen, to be picked up on the way. The splendid road books of the C.T.C., or a contour" road book, will be found of service. It is as well to make an abstract of these and of the C.T.C. hotels in a note-book, to avoid carrying the actual volumes. 40. Dress and Luggage. --Touring attire should follow the rules for ordinary riding dress, and no aberrations from the standard of all-wool clothing should be tolerated. In the way of footgear, stouter shoes than usual should be worn; the ordinary light cycling shoe, though good for its purpose, offers feeble resistance to wet and mud, and will go to pieces if much walking is done.
Spats are uncomfortable, but useful in muddy weather. They should be as thin as possible.
A light waterproof cape should always be carried. The quantity of extra clothing carried on the cycle should be cut down to Spartan limits; a heavy kit turns a pleasure into a toil. It is, however, not necessary to carry more underclothing than will suffice for two or three days, as fresh supplies can be sent to inns, post-offices, and railway stations en route. We prefer the last; the first ties one down to sleep or eat in the house, which the hour of one's visit may render inconvenient, and post-offices keep shorter hours than railway parcel offices, the larger of which are nearly always open.
The irreducible minimum would seem to consist of two spare flannel shirts for evening and night wear (the former may afterwards be promoted to active service), one or two spare collars (say one flannel and one linen), two or three handkerchiefs, a toothbrush, and a comb. Spare stockings, a hair brush, and shaving tackle come on the ،، margin of utility." The luxurious traveller who is contented to cumber himself may add to this list as his fancy dictates. Good soap, we may say, carried in a celluloid box or in a tobacco pouch, is conducive to comfort.
It is an excellent practice to stay several days at one place, and take long daily trips ro round about it; a complete change of clothes can then be kept at the inn, and afterwards forwarded to the next stopping place. This obviates the necessity of carrying any luggage on the machine. In any case, for very long tours, a complete change of clothes should be sent on by rail: after three weeks' constant use, any suit will stand in need of a thorough cleaning. 41. How to Pack the Luggage. The bulk of the luggage is best carried over the back wheel on some such contrivance as a Turner “Bi-Carrier." It is best wrapped in a sheet of American cloth and strapped to the carrier. A gridiron carrier over the front wheel answers very well for smaller kits, but photographers will keep this place for a camera carrier. A small parcel of luggage may be carried on the handles in handlebar carriers; to omit these is mistake, as the handlebars alone do not afford a firm enough hold to avoid shifting and consequent friction, and the American cloth will rapidly be worn into holes.
Valises which fit into the frame are to be avoided, as they hamper the knees of the rider. a 42. Tools. A larger assortment of tools should be carried when touring than when engaged in ordinary riding. In addition to the usual outfit of pump, spanners, oil-can and repair tackle, the following articles should be taken :- A yard of stout copper wire in a hank; combined pliers and wire-cutters; screw-driver; spare nuts and washers; some strong whipcord; sheet rubber; extra large tube of solution; large piece of repairing canvas. 43. Maps should be dissected and mounted on linen. They should be folded in their cases, with the map and not the linen outwards, so that they can be read like a book without the necessity for unfolding the whole sheet. A useful refinement is to have adjacent sheets mounted back to back, so as to save pocket space. The best maps for touring are Bartholomew's half-inch and quarter-inch maps, and the Ordnance quarter-inch. The first-named is rather large for a long tour. The obsolete county" maps, in which the map ends at the county boundary, and the scale varies according to the size of the county, should be avoided. 66 44. Cost of Touring. - Upon this point no hard-and-fast statement can be made; the cost will largely depend on the taste and means of the tourist. About ten shillings a day may be given as an average estimate under the C.T.C. tariffs; generally speaking, it will be found less expensive to avoid spending the night in large towns, where hotels are usually either expensive or uncomfortable, and to put up in the smaller market towns, in which the C.T.C. will usually possess the best hotel.
For those of narrower means the C.T.C. has appointed a cheaper class of houses, [CYCLING often very good, as well as Temperance Hotels, which are usually not under contract. But very often, especially in outof-the-way places, excellent accommodation can be obtained at small village inns; it needs, however, a practised eye to pick out good ones; one may fare on an excellent supper and breakfast, and sleep between lavender scented sheets for some three or four shillings, or one may eat rancid bacon off a dirty table-cloth among fumes of stale beer and bad tobacco, at the price of good hotel accommodation.
A discount is given at C.T.C. hotels of 12d. or 2d. in the shilling.
A good many riders find a heavy midday meal a hindrance to good riding, and take, when they are hungry, light cakes and milk or milk and soda at a convenient confectioner's. Such a meal may be repeated as convenient. 45. In General. The prudent rider will obviously, unless he has some special reason for doing so, avoid starting directly after a heavy meal, riding too far or fast in the day, or riding into the night. Mr. Jorrocks' advice on this point is perfectly sound.
The only further counsel which we can give is to avoid alcohol till the day's work is over, and to shun hotels which are near town clocks or railway stations. 46. Continental Touring. The membership ticket of the C.T.C., N.C.U., or T.C.F. is accepted as passing the bicycle of the owner into most European countries. Most Governments (that of France is not among these) require that the membership ticket have pasted to it a photograph of the holder. On entry into France the tourist is required to pay 60 centimes for a permis de circulation.
This should be carefully preserved, and exempts the holder for three months from the usual bicycle tax. It is available for three months, and persons staying for a longer time must pay the tax and obtain from a bureau de tabac the ordinary plaque de contrôle. In any case the bicycle must bear the name and address of the owner.
Name-plates suitably engraved are sold by the C.T.C. at a very low price.
The Continental rule of the road is the exact opposite of the British rule, Drivers keep to the right and overtake on the left.
A convenient method of touring is to put spare clothes in a kit-bag, and forward this to a railway station to be visited the evening of the next day. For the intervening night necessaries may be carried on the machine.
Touring in France has this great advantage, that the roads are in general better than in England, and a good dinner or lunch CYCLING] can be obtained without notice even in small hotels at prices about 25 per cent. lower than those obtaining in England.
Bellows' French Pocket Dictionary is well worth its cost.
Information with regard to touring in other countries can be obtained from the C.T.C.
VIII.—47. CYCLING INSTITUTIONS. -The Cyclists' Touring Club (Sec., W. S.
Burke, Euston Road, N.W.; subscription, 5s. a year; Is. entrance fee) was founded in 1878. Its advantages include:-A system of excellent hotels of varying grades, which are found in nearly every town, and at which a discount may be obtained; to prevent misrepresentation the tariff is printed in the Club Handbook; a system of approved cycle repairers; a unique organisation of local chief Consuls and Consuls, who will furnish, on personal or written application, information of every kind; the admission of members' machines duty free into most civilised countries; a monthly gazette; a splendid series of British and foreign road books, the former incomparably superior to anything previously issued. The C.T.C. has also taken a leading part in asserting the rights of cyclists, and is always prepared to render assistance, legal and otherwise, in approved cases; it has also erected numerous danger-boards on steep hills, and has done much to keep road surveyors up to a sense of their duties.
These latter objects are also the care of the N.C.U. (see below). A recent development of the C.T.C. has been the formation of district associations among local members for mutual intercourse; membership of these is, of course, optional. The C.T.C. is governed by a council, elected by postal vote of the Club. 48. The National Cyclists' Union (Sec., S. R. Noble, 57 Basinghall Street, E.C.; subscription for clubs, IOS. 6d. per twenty-five members; for private members, 5s.) is the governing body of the sport of cycle racing, and, like the C.T.C., keeps watch over the rights of cyclists, interests itself in the condition of highways and erects dangerboards.
The units of the N.C.U. are the clubs; these are divided into autonomous local centres, to which they return delegates; the centres, each according to its size, return delegates to a supreme federal body-the council. This appoints a general committee which deals with current business. 49. The Roads Improvement Association (Sec., Wallace E. Riche, Caxton House, Westminster, S.W.) is supported by the C.T.C., the N.C.U., and the Motor